Best check before I fit…progressive springs height

[Pete 21]

Hi guys,
I’m delighted to have just received my 1 inch lowered progressive front springs (even if it’s looking a little too hot to be under the car this weekend now)…however, they are somewhat lower than I expected!
They stand 10 inches high which is 4 inches lower than the one’s I’ve taken off (i.e. not 1 inch lower)!
Does anyone who has fitted same previously know what the right height is?
They have come from a reputable Stag supplier. Guess there could have been a mistake but right now not sure if my old’uns were (way!) too big or if something else is amiss. Either way best to check now,

Thanks in advance for any comments.

[sujitroy]

I bought 1.5 inch lower springs from Monarch. my friend bought 1.5 inch lowered from Tony Hart. I recall the un compressed heights were different between the two suppliers. If not mistaken yours are from either Hart or Wittor. but folks have mentioned they come from the same supplier the 1.5 inch spring that is. my rear is sitting at the correct height but the front is sitting a bit high.

Sujit

[JeffW]

If you check my other thread, I have had nothing but trouble (still unresolved) with ride height. My fronts were running at 16" and the car looked ridiculous so I bought 1 inch lowered progressives and the front is now at 13" (measured from hub cap to lower lip of wing) and now my front down pipe scrapes the ground and the ride is very hard.

I have now bought regular height progressive ones for the front, but have not installed them yet due to the heat.

My 1 inch lowered progressives were substantially shorter than regular ones, so I don't think that is an issue for yours. The large ones have to be compressed quite a ways with spring compressors to get the pans on, whereas the lowered progressives hardly need any compression at all.

Good luck - it's flummoxed me for months!

Jeff

[Pete 21]

Thanks Jeff. And there was me thinking I’m safe going with one inch lower as that could hardly make a great difference!

[shedhappens]

I put 1" lowered progressive on the front and 1" lower on rear and it's perfect. You definitely can't go by the free length of springs as it all depends on the material used, diameter and heat treatment.

[Pete 21]

Thanks shed. Did you go with standard or progressive 1 inch lower on the back?

[shedhappens]

Thanks shed. Did you go with standard or progressive 1 inch lower on the back?

Standard on th rear but they are firmer than standard - all from Chris Witor

[flying farmer]

Got the lowered progressive springs on both my Stags, one set from Tony Hart, one set from Chris Witor though I suspect they are from the same manufacturer as they were identical in appearance and fit. They are much shorter before fitment as due to the higher spring rate they compress far less when installed. The rear trailing arm brackets will need changing to correct the camber. I bought the necessary brackets from Tony Hart for my Mk2, and found the left over ones worked fine to correct the camber when I did my Mk1
Neil

[gbb483]

Was just watching an old WD programme today where they replaced the springs - the driver side front one was different to the passenger side. This was to compensate for the extra kit on that side and the fact that the majority of the time it's just the driver in the car.

[Pete 21]

Got the lowered progressive springs on both my Stags, one set from Tony Hart, one set from Chris Witor though I suspect they are from the same manufacturer as they were identical in appearance and fit. They are much shorter before fitment as due to the higher spring rate they compress far less when installed. The rear trailing arm brackets will need changing to correct the camber. I bought the necessary brackets from Tony Hart for my Mk2, and found the left over ones worked fine to correct the camber when I did my Mk1
Neil

Hi Neil- thanks for your reply.
Perhaps naively I wasn’t aware of a need to change brackets if lowering the rears.
Presumably as the springs are shorter it pushes the wheel out and the angle of the trailing arms need to change to compensate? I see monarchs sell an adjustable bracket (which looks quite expensive for a bracket!) - is that what is required or are their brackets available basically with different dimensions, i.e. the bush holes ‘re-sited’?

Thanks in advance for any advice offered.

[sujitroy]

I have monarchs adjustable. I have a welder and made my own off the same design using the original bracket. you just need to make a slot in it. Yes for what they are they are expensive. but having the ability to adjust is nice.

[flying farmer]

There are several different brackets available as standard with the mounting holes for the trailing arm bushes being at different heights relative to the holes that fix the brackets to the subframe.

The ones sent to me by Tony Hart for the MK2 stag were second hand ones but I don't know where they came from. Some of the brackets have a large amount of offset from a central position, and some only have a small amount. The ones with a small amount can possibly be fitted either way up. Depends on whether yours is a MK1 or Mk2. You will need to raise the inner end of the trailing arm or lower the outer end to correct the camber.

Neil

[MikeParker]

I have a standard Stag setup and the problem I get is that the car sits low at the back when loaded up. I don't want to put stiffer springs on as I do like the soft Stag ride. Last year I was down here in France in my Audi Q5 and that was very uncomfortable on the choppy French roads.

What I am looking for is a pre-loadable shock absorber as you get on bikes. I.e a gas pump up or the like. I have looked around and the adjustable gaz shocks just control shock absorbation rather than provide spring assistance. Are there such things for the Stag?