Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rear brakes Binding

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Rear brakes Binding

    My rear brakes are binding, to the point that the car is almost impossible to push and the drums get hot after 10 to 15 minutes of driving.

    I've had this problem, off and on since I got the car but put it down to the handbrake/levers - so simply didn't use the handbrake - although handbrake was fine for the MoT. I found that if I didn't use the handbrake the brakes didn't bind. This year though, the brakes seem to be binding all or at least most of the time.

    Anyway, thought that I'd have a look around and see what's what, I have dismantled the rear brakes, cleaned the adjusters (one was the wrong way round, so corrected). I fitted and new set of springs and retainers as well as new brake hoses. All bled satisfactorily. (JFI, the old hoses were closed right up - the rubber had swollen, I initially thought this might have been my problem)

    The handbrake levers are as new, still have a freshly zinc coated appearance, free, and show no wear, as are both brake cylinders - these were all replaced by previous owner/garage about 8 years or 4000 miles ago.

    However, after all this nothing has changed, the brakes are binding even without using the handbrake at all, If I take the wheel off I have to release the adjusters to get the drum off. Refit drum and press footbrake a few times and the drum locks up. Release footbrake and the drum is now very stiff to turn, as if the brake shoes aren't backing off.

    It's almost as if the adjuster is adjusting up too far, the wheel cylinders are retracting OK so the problem must be linked to the adjusters, but why?

    Could this still be a problem with the handbrake lever(s) or has anyone any other ideas please?

    #2
    When you reset the adjusters using the foot brake is your handbrake cable disconnected from the levers which is the way to adjust. Disconnect, push them backwards, back off adjusters, couple of pushes on the brake and reconnect. You may now find that you need to adjust the handbrake cable connectors.
    Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Goldstar View Post
      When you reset the adjusters using the foot brake is your handbrake cable disconnected from the levers which is the way to adjust. Disconnect, push them backwards, back off adjusters, couple of pushes on the brake and reconnect. You may now find that you need to adjust the handbrake cable connectors.
      Cheers. Yes, I did it all as I was supposed to. I'd read all other posts on here about the issue, that's what has got me baffled.......

      Comment


        #4
        Seadog. I had a similar experience after fitting new shoes. I did all the things you have done, to no effect, so tried a different make of shoes and the problem went away.
        Mike.

        Comment


          #5
          If there was a lip on the drums, get it turned off.
          There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
          2.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Lingen View Post
            Seadog. I had a similar experience after fitting new shoes. I did all the things you have done, to no effect, so tried a different make of shoes and the problem went away.
            Mike.
            Thanks, I might just try that, they could probably do with changing after being overheated several times, although I don't know where the current ones came from.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jbuckl View Post
              If there was a lip on the drums, get it turned off.
              There's no lip on the drums, I think they might have been 'new' about ten years ago, no wear at all, and fortunately after the overheating, they are still round! Ovality max is about 3 thou/0.08mm.

              Comment


                #8
                Had the same issue some years ago - cured it by grinding off some of the edge of the shoe backing steel, which was holding the shoe off the backplate at a slight angle. Near where the curved part ends, by the top pivot point. I did post here but cannot find the post now.

                These days, I would just change the shoes!
                Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Chamfer the leading edge of the brake shoes. some are supplied where the leading edge is a square section. This "can" pick up on the drum

                  Get the back end off the ground, are both rear drums binding or just one? if both then I might look further forward.

                  Is the PDWA shuttle centred in the warning device on the LH front inner wing? It shouldn't shut off either circuit as far as I am aware but may restrict the flow of brake fluid.

                  Check also for any damaged or crimped brake line, crushed where the line has been bent. Beyond that i would be checking the master cylinder
                  Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Make sure you don't have one seized wheel cyclinder piston in the wheel cylinder, that's what I had on mine last week , mot this Friday
                    Last edited by MandM; 23 June 2022, 10:12.
                    "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

                    Comment

                    canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
                    Chad fucks Amara Romanis ass on his top ?????????????? ???? ?????? ?????? ? ??????? fotos de hombres mostrando el pene
                    Working...
                    X