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Winter Jobs.. What's your list??

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    Winter Jobs.. What's your list??

    OK so now the driving season is basically over time to get to some of the jobs I have been putting off..

    Rack is leaking from left side (drivers side in my case) I'm fairly sure its the "shuttle" seal in the rack but I guess could be the control, hopefully I will be able to determine that when I disassemble it. It works fine - just leaks.

    The rear seat squab and tonneau cover have faded so they need to be redone. (see my other post)

    The grandkids are getting bigger, maybe install 3 point seatbelt anchors while the tonneau is off?

    Move fuel filter from over manifold

    Extra hood release.

    ??KYB front shocks. I like the rears I just put on!

    ??fuel gauge is not very accurate - but do I really care?

    And the biggie.. The rear engine seal is weeping, so that would mean the gearbox out, if I do that the prop shaft is getting new HD UJ's. ahh maybe next year -- its not that bad!!

    That should keep me busy

    So what' s your list?

    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

    Mine are.......
    1: Wait for something to go wrong, then fix it.
    2: See a psychiatrist about Stag Paranoia.
    3: Fit a new carpet ( if money allows )
    4: Fit magnetic sump plug, change oil ( fuzz townshend heritage )
    5: before oil change, locate oil leak and fix ( probable oil pump seals )
    6: paint work touch up...maybe a re-spray.
    7: Fit stereo and speakers.
    8: Fit Led bulbs all round.
    9: After paint work fit on stripes ......only 2 meters.

    10: Fix one of the above as something will go wrong.


      Not as many as you, Terry, but here's a few jobs I've been putting off for too long.

      I want to change all of the flexible fuel line connections with E10 tolerant material; I've done them piecemeal over many years when they've started to crack & 'smell', so time to do it right.

      I've also got a new set of Cibie headlights to fit, as the reflectors on my current set (20-odd years old) are a bit cloudy, although I've been told they could be carefully cleaned, and if they do, will put back into my spares stash.

      Last year I bought a wider opening thermostat from Tony Hart, so will install that when I flush the coolant.

      And lastly there's a new set of black & silver number plates; the present front one has severe gravel rash, so again I'll clean it up and stash it away with the old set of Cibie's.

      At the start of next season, I'll change the oil & filters, clean out the brakes, and blow out the cobwebs with a fresh tank of E5!



        jobs already done are replacing the front seatbelts and fitting new door handles. those were the quick easy and relatively cheap ones.

        Then diff out for a new pinion seal, quill shaft bearing and strengthening. clean and replace the underseal on the boot floor while it's all out, then reassemble with new cv halfshafts.

        Then early next year it will be out with the gearbox to solve the noisy layshaft bearings.....
        1967 Vauxhall Victor
        1973 Stag


          regrind crankshaft
          Change lift and high pressure fuel pumps to 1 in tank fuel pump.
          change fuel tank to accept new in tank pump
          fit EWP system
          modify alternator location to allow EWP installation.
          Fit polished and gas flowed heads.

          But then, perhaps none of the above.
          Your wife is right, size matters. 3.9RV8


            Like Singapore Stag.

            1: Wait for something to go wrong, then fix it.
            2: See a psychiatrist about Stag Paranoia.


              Finish rebuilding the rear suspension and diff
              New radiator and new water pipes
              Coolant system flush and sort out the heater valve
              New E10 resistant fuel hoses
              Oil and filter change
              New seat squabs
              Refurb the dash
              Fit relays for headlights and Rad fan.
              not too much
              '72 Triumph TR6 Supercharged; '70 MG Midget; '72 Triumph Stag


                Put car to bed:-

                Spray wax coating onto chromework & wheels.

                Check tyre pressures.

                Ensure roof up (to stretch)

                Now with E10, pump tank dry of fuel and seal off fuel cap & vent to minimise air entering fank (moist air). Then run engine until carbs empty.

                Sort out electric aerial - a radio problem.

                Check poison bait in rat /mouse traps, and check gaps under garage doors. Rodents love wiring & seats.

                Clean leaves from garage gutters to ensure rain water gets away from garage and keep garage is as dry as possible.

                Spray film of oil over contents of tool chest to prevent rusting of spanners.

                Disconnect battery.

                Leave bonnet ajar..

                Open bottle of red wine and hibernate until Spring.



                  As far as mice go I saw a u-tube video where this guy was busting mouse repellant myths, like dryer pads, Irish spring soap and more., the only one that worked was mint oil..


                  The other way to deal with E10 is to fill to brim, as that also prevents condensation forming, No problems for my 2 classics over the last 8-10 years.. but sounds like your garage is not fully dry all the time. Best be sure..
                  Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware



                    1. Drive it on every suitable occasion e.g. dry sunny days.

                    2. Wash it when it gets dirty.

                    3. Fix it if it breaks.
                    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.


                      Stag no. 1 needs to come off the road for new bushes all round, another diff and a carb transplant to another set of ZS carbs, but weather here, Northern California, has been mild so still getting a few days of top down driving. Stag no. 2 has the hard top on and can't easily get it off the car single handed. I have a hard top hoist, but still needs 2.


                        Bumpers, on or off? Chrome or stainless, satin black 1/4 bumpers, let's wait and see.


                          Originally posted by DJT View Post
                          1. Drive it on every suitable occasion e.g. dry sunny days.

                          2. Wash it when it gets dirty.

                          3. Fix it if it breaks.
                          I'm with you Dave on this - 100%


                            Fit Electric Fan, with manually set timed run on to reduce Heat Soak, and fit Stagdad external water pump. As alternator will now be on the left so change it to an 80A version.

                            Reposition Header Tank float switch. Invert it and put it higher so it becomes fail safe and gives earlier warning, and put an on delay on the float switch with initial bulb check on power up.

                            Fit 2nd bonnet pull on drivers side with integral switch to isolate inner dip headlights for town driving and push button to start fan for carb cooling.

                            Fit Active Breather System.

                            Then after lunch take a nap.

                            1974 ,French Blue, TV8, ZF4, Weber, Header Tank, Sec' Spoiler, Rad Cowl. LED Lights, LHD Stalks .



                              Does you header tank hose at the radiator end come out towards the radiator, or across the engine bay?

                              If it comes out across the engine bay then it fouls the alternator in the new position, so sorry but more plumbing would be needed.



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