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  • JeffW
    replied
    Originally posted by mole42 View Post
    My diff only became leak-free after application of speedi-sleeves. What a godsend!
    +1

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  • dasadrew
    replied
    These are some of the part numbers I used on my diff overhaul:

    Extension Housing Quill Shaft Speedi Sleeve: SKF 99835 1.997 - 2.003 03314 3294
    SKF Oil Seal Diff Nose: SKF 19778
    Pinion Bearing: RHP LJ.7/8-2RS
    Propshaft Flange to pinion LocNut: 5/8" - 18 UNF 14mm high

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  • mole42
    replied
    My diff only became leak-free after application of speedi-sleeves. What a godsend!

    Leave a comment:


  • dasadrew
    replied
    I only managed to get a good seal on the quill shaft oil seal after fitting a Speedie-Sleeve. The shaft has a fair degree of movement and I found the sealing part of it was quite pitted.

    I also found a gearbox jack to be a really useful piece of kit.

    Sealey Gearbox Jack.jpg

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  • sxl01
    replied
    Thanks guys, always helpful people on here. I had help from a friend who builds engines, gearboxes and back ends for rally cars so has the necessary equipment. Refurbed the complete diff assembly, changed all bearings and seals, like for like, RHP and Timken . May have got away with seals but looked it may have been rebuilt before so also changed Crown wheel bolts and the Diff bearing cap bolts(possibly stretched) along with trust washers and cross shaft(showing wear). Strengthened quill housing and drilled oil drain hole, renewed nyloc nuts and washers where necessary and painted. Trolly jack and second pair of hands helped to refit. For a DIY job it has cost me here in NI around 450

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  • dasadrew
    replied
    5ECA6D58-DEA7-4246-8F83-46C38A15D276.jpegin the ROM there is an error - corrected here

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  • JeffW
    replied
    Originally posted by singapore stag View Post
    I changed the quill bearing about 9 years ago by myself, first major job for me. You need to be good in bench press weight training. Its really heavy work.
    Really? Mine was ok on my Mk1. I just followed richardthestag's video on YouTube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-N21WSpVBE&t=125s, and didn't find it heavy work at all. The only tricky part is spinning off the nut, but he shows you a quick neat trick to get around that (buy him a pint through his PayPal for the free advice!).

    Jeff

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  • singapore stag
    replied
    I changed the quill bearing about 9 years ago by myself, first major job for me. You need to be good in bench press weight training. Its really heavy work.

    Leave a comment:


  • stag8manod
    replied
    +1 with Jeff.
    Cheers Ian A

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  • JeffW
    replied
    As Julian and Neil said it is possible, but with the diff out you may wish to consider popping off the nose extension and changing the bearing (use the expensive one!) and getting the nose reinforced as it is a common fail area.

    Jeff

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  • jbuckl
    replied
    If you are within travelling distance of south Birmingham, there’s a diff support frame for a trolley jack you can borrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • NeilR
    replied
    Suggest supporting on axle stands under the spring seats on rear suspension arms.
    Apart from the weight of it, it's a relatively easy job, use a trolley jack for supporting the diff.

    Leave a comment:


  • sxl01
    replied
    Thanks Neil

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  • NeilR
    replied
    Yes

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  • sxl01
    started a topic Diff removal/fitting

    Diff removal/fitting

    Hi all, can the diff be removed and refitted without removing the quill nose extension, ta
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