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Manual gearbox 2 issues.

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    #16
    "If the clutch was dragging at all you would know when you you try to engage reverse, the gears grind in reverse whereas the synchro rings on the forward gears just drag and stop you engaging the gears." No grinding in reverse. Just very difficult to to engage. It used to grind, but that was before changing the master and slave cylinder and line.
    One less experiment to so then.

    Regards, Sujit

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      #17
      So you can buy this direct from Goodridge for less than 30GBP, but a well know supplier charges over 80GBP? Seems a bit of a rip-off to me.

      https://www.goodridge.co.uk/products...39265509408833
      Dave
      1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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        #18
        On my Alvis, the clutch plate sometimes sticks. The solution then is to turn the starter and it frees itself. And like you first and reverse (the only non synchromesh gears) sometimes have to be "tricked" before I am able to engage them.

        I am thankful my Stag has the T&L 4 speed auto. It has made it a very modern car, apart from the lack of ABS.

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          #19
          Originally posted by sujitroy View Post
          The clutch line is an upgraded braided unit from JP. The clutch and plate is from Bork and Beck. The bolts holding on the plate were checked so they didn't bottom out. They are slightly shorter than specified.
          I spoke to Terry earlier today He suggested to re-bleed the clutch, while the bleed screws is loose push the rod in all the way into the cylinder. When I bled the clutch last, I used a Mity Vac vacuum pump. Will doing it the old fashion way, one person on pedal, one person on bleed screw, make a difference? I also made sure the bleed screw was at 12 O' Clock.
          Terry also suggested to look for any play in the rod system. I don't' think I have any play. Another thing to try is to move the push rod to the first hole on the X shaft. It is currently in the middle.
          Also suggested to test for clutch drag, is to put the rear of the car on stands, clutch pedal down, start the car, engage in 1st and see if the wheels begin to rotate.
          I will report back over the weekend.
          Regards, Sujit
          I did these steps to bleed mine, I didn't have anyone to the press the pedal for me so setup the bleed jar up halfway between the master and slave. Couple of slow presses on the clutch then under the car pushing the rod all the way home pushed a lot more bubbles out, so they get stuck somewhere in the slave.

          Having a new transparent pipe helped to see if there was any air in the pipe in my case.

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            #20
            hi

            i got a 3/4" (22 mm) diam slave instead of 1" - it solved the issue with disengaging clutch. New diaphrams are in need of more travel.

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              #21
              james paddock has the slave wirh improved travel here:

              https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/clutch-slave-cylinder-alternative-improved-travel

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by AlabamaJones View Post
                james paddock has the slave wirh improved travel here:

                https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/clutc...mproved-travel
                I enquired about that alternative unit and asked if it fails, can you obtain new seals for it. They said it's from a Dolomite Sprint.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by nigele View Post
                  I’ve just ordered a Goodridge hose on eBay for just under 30. Goodridge also sell them direct at 25.82 + vat + p&p.

                  Nigel
                  Nigel,

                  Just looked on Ebay and found this:

                  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312959575...8AAOSwnGleKE7X

                  Was this your source? Looks different to the Rimmers pipe, but may be just a generic photo on Ebay. Please let us know how it works out and if it improves the feel of the clutch.

                  Mike

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                    #24
                    Just had a thought, on mine there are three different connections points on the bell housing cross arm to connect the slave rod to. When I was having trouble getting my clutch to release I moved it from the middle point to the inside point which would have given it more travel per push, could that be an option for you?

                    It didn't help my clutch release so I moved it back to the middle hole and other methods were used to release the stuck on clutch......

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by MikeParker View Post

                      Nigel,

                      Just looked on Ebay and found this:

                      https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312959575...8AAOSwnGleKE7X

                      Was this your source? Looks different to the Rimmers pipe, but may be just a generic photo on Ebay. Please let us know how it works out and if it improves the feel of the clutch.

                      Mike
                      Mike,

                      Yes that’s the one I have ordered, it hasn’t arrived yet and I probably won’t fit it until after Silverstone just in case I have any problems!
                      I’m also going to fit a new standard slave as I had previously fitted one of the ‘increased travel’ ones which resulted in a very much heavier pedal. I’ll let you know what it’s like in a few weeks.
                      The eBay picture is generic I hope as in different pictures it shows 2 and 4 hoses!

                      Nigel

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                        #26
                        I changed my clutch master (can we still use that term without being chucked into Bristol harbour?) cyl recently & once we started to 'get a pedal' I released the bleed nipple whilst the pedal was held down (clutch released) & was surprised by the amount of air that remained. Only told took about 5 mines & a perfect pedal. Clutch judders mine but the car is an old dog so not surprised!
                        Auto transmission rebuilding since 1979 - for my sins!

                        Comment


                          #27
                          It seems to work fine:-
                          1 if correct clutch is used
                          2 if the slave has been installed on the correct side of the bell housing
                          3 if the hydraulics are sealed and fully bled.
                          4 if the mechanism has no lost motion eg cross shaft pinch bolt is tightened in the right place
                          There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
                          2.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Just an update. I went under the car and re-bled the clutch a couple of times. Bleed screw at 12 O' Clock. I have no play in pin or shaft. Reassembled on centre hole, but still having same issue. (judder). I plan to move the rod to the upper hole. If I still have the same problem, do I just get used to it until the gearbox comes out next?
                            Sujit

                            Comment


                              #29
                              With all the other checks you have done it probably points towards the clutch plate or pressure plate, which basically are the only two parts in there and if you were taking them out you'd put news ones in. Yes there is the thrust bearing but for that to cause a judder I'd have thought you would have noise from it.

                              If however there is oil on the clutch plate another issue before replacing, the clutch plate would then need replacing, the pressure plate if resonably new could be reused, but given the cost I'd replace as well along with the thrust bearing.

                              Comment

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