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    Brake fade

    Hi All,

    I wonder if anyone could offer any advice, or has experienced this issue. I have a 1971 auto, the brake pedal travel seems to have increased. When I am sat in traffic the pedal needs increasing pressure to hold it against the gearbox, and the pedal moves towards the floor. It stops ok but seems to have more travel. When you start it with your foot on the brake the pedal goes down as you’d expect which indicates the servo is working. I’ve checked and there are no leaks. I have bled the front brakes, but have not got round to the back yet.

    Has anyone experienced this or similar, or could point me in the right direction before I start replacing random parts!

    Cheers Neil

    #2
    I would say the brake master cylinder is starting to leak,you cant see any leak as its leaking in to the servo

    Dave










    73 mk 1/2 now gone to the dark side BLUE

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Dave, I would have thought I’d have been losing fluid though, but I have not had to top it up at all. Unless it draws it back in?

      Comment


        #4
        Neil.
        The fluid is leaking back past the seals and returning to the reservoir, so not leaking externally. You could try replacing the seals, which needs the right tools, but it would probably be best to replace the master cylinder.
        Brakes need to be 100% reliable.
        Mike.

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          #5
          Thanks, as you say Mike, brakes need to be 100%. I have ordered a new cylinder and removed the old one already.

          Cheers for the quick advice Dave and Mike.

          Neil

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            #6
            In my old Mini Cooper days, there was more travel in the pedal as the front pads wore down. Not sure if that’s the case with Stag disc pads, but might be work checking out.

            Comment


              #7
              Robin.
              That sounds a bit unusual. Disc brakes are always "Self adjusting". Gradually increasing pedal travel on a Stag would probably mean that the adjusters on the rear shoes weren't working.
              Mike.

              Comment


                #8
                I have a bw35. the rpms at idle in drive are around 700 ish. I don't need to much pressure on the brake pedal to keep it from moving. in addition to doing the brake cylinder have you thought about the rpm. I rebuilt a cylinder. the hard part is removing a circlip from deep in the sleeve. I bought a cheap pair of long nose circlip pliers and ground down the sides so it could reach. There is also a plastic ring which need to come out. screw a thing screw into it and pull it out. repair kits have this ring. if the car has not been regulary driven, I'd change it.

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