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    #16
    Hi Alan

    I am now planning to remove the pump. I have just had the new manifold gaskets arrive,

    I am now about to order said hex rod, great idea, thanks for your help.

    Dave

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      #17
      I simply filled the pump with fresh oil before I refitted it - primed up instantly.
      Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

      Comment


        #18
        +1, I also 3/4 fill the filter, I do this when I change the oil and filter
        "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by DMT View Post
          Hi Alan

          I am now planning to remove the pump. I have just had the new manifold gaskets arrive,

          I am now about to order said hex rod, great idea, thanks for your help.

          Dave
          At least in the DIY stores here those stirrers for paint buckets which fit in your drill have a hex shaft which is exactly right for the Stag. Cost peanuts and I bet B&Q have them too.
          The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

          Comment


            #20
            Just removed the transfer housing then the pump, at last. Had to loosen the manifold and move it forward about 5 mm to allow pump removal. Managed to remove the old manifold gaskets with a feeler gauge (25 thou actually).
            The pump seems to be in decent nick but a few O rings were quite compressed. Rebuild with new O rings except pump to block as the wrong size was supplied. Ordered the uprated one ( Does this mean it works!!!)
            Dave

            Comment


              #21
              Good progress there!
              Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

              Comment


                #22
                Yep, chuffed at all the tech help available.

                Cheers all.
                Last edited by DMT; 19 June 2021, 11:21.

                Comment


                  #23
                  New updated oil pump seal arrived today and pump was refitted. (Full of oil)

                  I am going to manually spin it to check oil pressure when hex rod arrives. In the process of removing the dizzy I found the drive shaft very tight both ends. Shaft scored and new shaft fitted nicely. On dizzy removal I saw that the optical units wires had pulled tight and the chopper blades were cutting through a wire. (Thanks for the external priming idea Alan, I would not have seen this otherwise.)

                  I have been learning lots of new things about the stag, steering shaft 1mm from exhaust, thin brown wire hanging off end of alternator loom, (is this wire used, the circuits show it is), and I noticed that oil has reappeared from the lower join between the autobox (ZF4) and engine. This was cleaned when I removed the pump and the oil has been drained. The engine has been sitting there for 5 days now.

                  What puzzles me is-

                  When I first looked for the oil leak the pump was oily as was the bottom of the transfer housing (where a found a small lump on one of the mating faces, that would have limited compression of the O ring), and of course the bottom of the bell housing. If oil was leaking from the pump area it would migrate backwards but surely not go into the bell housing, to leak out later. If the leak was inside the bell housing then surely it would not go forwards onto the pump! I assume I have two leaks.

                  1 step forward, 2 back.

                  Dave

                  Comment


                    #24
                    All you can do is cure one leak at a time. Took me ages, and eventually, after 4 months of "dryness", the steering rack seals decided not to. Seal, that is. Hey ho.
                    Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      on some engines, even rebuilt ones, like mine, you can get more oil leaks with a Weber, especially one dating from circa 2013. From Weber supporters, I believe there is a different adapter plate now available.
                      I chased one oil leak after another, starting with oil pump, transfer casing, cam cover Ds, timing cover gaskets, and adding various breather systems. After about 6 years and 14,000km of this, my patience finally ran out after a 2000km trip. Oil was blasting out of every seam, coating the underside of the bonnet and destroying a newish relocated alternator. I only changed back to Strommies with no other changes, and the engine is perfectly dry.....apart from the steering rack....
                      I'm no mechanic, but I learnt a lot from working through all that.
                      I sincerely hope what you're observing isn't what I started out observing.
                      Just my experience...
                      Tanya: Brit in Canada
                      71 Fed Stag, TV8, ZF 4spd auto, EWP and crossed fingers

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by DMT View Post
                        New updated oil pump seal arrived today and pump was refitted. (Full of oil)

                        I am going to manually spin it to check oil pressure when hex rod arrives. In the process of removing the dizzy I found the drive shaft very tight both ends. Shaft scored and new shaft fitted nicely. On dizzy removal I saw that the optical units wires had pulled tight and the chopper blades were cutting through a wire. (Thanks for the external priming idea Alan, I would not have seen this otherwise.)

                        I have been learning lots of new things about the stag, steering shaft 1mm from exhaust, thin brown wire hanging off end of alternator loom, (is this wire used, the circuits show it is), and I noticed that oil has reappeared from the lower join between the autobox (ZF4) and engine. This was cleaned when I removed the pump and the oil has been drained. The engine has been sitting there for 5 days now.

                        What puzzles me is-

                        When I first looked for the oil leak the pump was oily as was the bottom of the transfer housing (where a found a small lump on one of the mating faces, that would have limited compression of the O ring), and of course the bottom of the bell housing. If oil was leaking from the pump area it would migrate backwards but surely not go into the bell housing, to leak out later. If the leak was inside the bell housing then surely it would not go forwards onto the pump! I assume I have two leaks.

                        1 step forward, 2 back.

                        Dave
                        Haha.. You can assume you have many leaks...sounds like you may have found one of them!I On every restoration I have done I have successfully produced a leak free engine.. Until the Stag..

                        If there's a leak inside the bell housing it would probably be the rear crank seal, the oil coming out may be black and dirty from the clutch dust..
                        Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                        www.terryhunt.co.uk

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Hi Terry

                          I bought the stag with Strom's and it had this leak, so possibly my changing to a Weber may (at the moment ) mean I am OK as the leak seems to be the same.. I will spin the pump manually, hopefully fast enough to lift the pressure regulator and see if I have any oil pump leaks. I have checked the bottom of the bell housing since cleaning it yesterday, some oil has continued to come out, so at some point I will have to sort out the crank seal.

                          Dave

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Be careful - I burnt out a drill when testing the oiling system on a yank V8 - you will be surprised how much resistance there is to the turning of the oil pump once pressure is up.
                            Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              HELP!!!

                              What have I done.

                              Just replaced the oil pump and transfer housing. Span it over on the starter and oil pressure when up to 50psi.

                              Re connected everything and fired her up. What a racket, exhaust manifold gaskets blowing like mad, Should I have used sealant? I just fitted new gaskets and the surfaces seemed clean and they looked a good fit and tight.

                              Bigger problem though, Oil pressure went up to 60psi at 400 rpm and revving to 1500 up to 70psi. Turned engine off quick.

                              I have replaced the oil relief spring, but with one I was sold was standard 45psi, It looked and compressed the same as the original one.

                              Should I remove the pump and refit the old spring? or could I have assembled it back wrong, it seem pretty straight forward.

                              Dodgy Dave

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Those pressures are around about what I saw with my new county pump. I installed the spring from my old pump and it was too low so added a shim to bring it up to where I wanted it.

                                The good news is that your engine is healthy enough to produce such pressures!

                                On the manifold there were no gaskets originally but many, including me, install them anyway. I didn’t use sealant. You probably just need to make sure it’s seated properly. It could be twisted by the other pipes so it may be worth loosening the down pipe joint and try again.
                                Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                                www.terryhunt.co.uk

                                Comment

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