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  • Roy_S
    replied
    Originally posted by DJT View Post

    Not for Stag. The Stag sump plug has a tapered thread. 3/8 x 18 Dryseal

    Try here, Item DP6: http://www.speedograph-richfield.com...ain_plugs.html

    or here: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-84331-g...ug-ip-03x.aspx
    Thanks for the feedback, I'll order one.

    @MamdM remember those days well from doing oil changes on my first cars, the joy of the engine oil running down your sleeve whilst wedged under the car because I didn't have axel stands.

    Then I did it because I didn't have money for a garage, now I do it because I enjoy working on my Stag....

    Leave a comment:


  • MandM
    replied
    Originally posted by Roy_S View Post
    when you first fit it, on the first couple of oil change it will look like a Christmas tree as it pulls all the crap from the base of the sump, I did think Bugger or words to that effect on the first change

    Leave a comment:


  • DJT
    replied
    Originally posted by Roy_S View Post
    Not for Stag. The Stag sump plug has a tapered thread. 3/8 x 18 Dryseal

    Try here, Item DP6: http://www.speedograph-richfield.com...ain_plugs.html

    or here: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-84331-g...ug-ip-03x.aspx
    Last edited by DJT; 7 July 2021, 19:17.

    Leave a comment:


  • Roy_S
    replied
    Originally posted by Dean View Post
    Where can you get a magnetic sump plug I would like to fit one
    Found this on eBay:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193147512...kAAOSw08xdnHPh

    Leave a comment:


  • 022Dave
    replied
    Originally posted by MikeParker View Post

    Actually, I am thinking of doing the same thing. There are stories on this forum (although this has not happened to me) about the standard front and rear hubs fracturing, resulting in wheels falling off, so upgrading the hubs as well makes sense. Just expensive!

    Mike
    The stories are quite true, and people have had some lucky escapes. Motorsport Micky and Dave Taylor (DJT) have both posted some 'interesting' photos of failures on here. I chose to invest the money before it happened, rather than after; similar outlay, but a lot less drama

    If you are doing the rear hubs, it's well worth upgrading the studs that secure the hubs to the aluminium suspension arms. Mine were shot, and CDD do a very good kit, including the drilling & tapping jigs. I have no connection to them, but Alasdair is a good engineer.

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • MikeParker
    replied
    Originally posted by 022Dave View Post

    Not as far as I know, Mike. I bought the whole kit, both front & back, plus their CV jointed driveshafts.

    Dave
    Actually, I am thinking of doing the same thing. There are stories on this forum (although this has not happened to me) about the standard front and rear hubs fracturing, resulting in wheels falling off, so upgrading the hubs as well makes sense. Just expensive!

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • 022Dave
    replied
    Originally posted by MikeParker View Post

    Dave, Do CDD do their own stubs that fit the original hubs? I know CDD do "uprated" axles stubs to go with their own "uprated" hubs. Those stubs, commendably, do not have the narrowed section which contributes to the axle flexing/snapping. But you are into much greater cost in that case. All the axles stubs that mate with original hubs, that I have seen, are the same design and seem to be from the same source.

    Mike
    Not as far as I know, Mike. I bought the whole kit, both front & back, plus their CV jointed driveshafts.

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • MikeParker
    replied
    Originally posted by 022Dave View Post

    Regarding the front stub axles, CDD machine their own, and supply them with Timken bearings, which are probably the best generally available. I have them on my Stag, and they are superb, greatly reducing disc pad knock-out on winding roads.

    Dave
    Dave, Do CDD do their own stubs that fit the original hubs? I know CDD do "uprated" axles stubs to go with their own "uprated" hubs. Those stubs, commendably, do not have the narrowed section which contributes to the axle flexing/snapping. But you are into much greater cost in that case. All the axles stubs that mate with original hubs, that I have seen, are the same design and seem to be from the same source.

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • jbuckl
    replied
    Originally posted by Nigel W View Post

    Neil

    do you know what causes the jackshaft to seize?

    Nigel
    Quite a few things… too much oil pressure.
    No oil pressure.
    Chains too tight.
    water pump ~too much torque to turn.
    hydrodynamic (block or shaft) bearing worn out.
    & other things….

    Leave a comment:


  • 022Dave
    replied
    Originally posted by MikeParker View Post
    Dave,

    I think all the suppliers supply the same part from the same ultimate source which have the wrong taper angle. I did ask Chris if his source was different and he thought not.

    Mike
    Regarding the front stub axles, CDD machine their own, and supply them with Timken bearings, which are probably the best generally available. I have them on my Stag, and they are superb, greatly reducing disc pad knock-out on winding roads.

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • MikeParker
    replied
    Dave,

    I think all the suppliers supply the same part from the same ultimate source which have the wrong taper angle. I did ask Chris if his source was different and he thought not.

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • new to this
    replied
    Originally posted by MikeParker View Post
    Do we know if any of the regular contributors are involved with the Tooling Fund Ltd company? If I don't get any responses I will email the address in the mag and see how I get on. I am also keen to get some decent axle stubs made as well.

    Mike
    There already available,try Chris Witor or CDD

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • Nigel W
    replied
    Originally posted by flying farmer View Post
    A few years ago I did a forum poll about timing chain failures ( put timing chain poll in the search box, it is a few down the list showing as Which broke first?)

    Basically the chain snapping without warning is unusual, somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of breakages (depending whether you include the Dolomite or not) were caused by the jackshaft seizing first. A good quality chain may even shear the jackshaft dowel without breaking the chain and cause much less damage. The only certainty is that cheaper chains will stretch and cause even faster wear on the butter soft crank sprockets that are available these days.
    All that metal that is lost from the sprockets has to go somewhere. It isn't all caught by the filter as some goes through the bypass valve which is why I now favour magnetic sump plugs.

    Neil
    Neil

    do you know what causes the jackshaft to seize?

    Nigel

    Leave a comment:


  • wilf
    replied
    And in truth, the original designs have lasted nearly half a century, probably multiples of their design life.

    Leave a comment:


  • MikeParker
    replied
    Originally posted by wilf View Post
    Because the aftermarket is always inventing something "better"?
    That is also true!

    Leave a comment:

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