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  • KOY 23
    replied
    Anyone who sells or changes carbs should have an AFR meter as it’s the most reliable way of seeing what’s happening in the engine. I bought replacement carb and was initially happy with it. A fellow soc member suggested that I fit an AFR meter to see if mine was running as weak as his. I did and found it was running way too weak. In hindsight I should have returned the kit and replaced the Strombergs rather then spend more money on rejetting it and rolling road sessions.

    Leave a comment:


  • trunt
    replied
    Originally posted by marshman View Post

    Thanks. Running lean whilst on long runs "cruising" down the motorway is my main concern. All the home tuning you can do tends to be at idle / no load. Rolling roads are costly - this could be a good compromise - especially as I said I can use it on several cars. Just need to work out how you determine which bit of the metering needle is "being" used at various times - might drill a couple of holes in the bonnet and put a couple of graduated sticks on top of the pistons Life was so much easier with leaded fuel when you could see the change in colour of the spark pugs and exhaust tail pipe.


    Been there- done that..

    https://www.terryhunt.co.uk/tech/picsc/pics.htm

    https://www.terryhunt.co.uk/tech/picsb/pics.htm

    My MIni turbo project needed to have the right mixture or the pistons snapped lands.. only did that once or twice! Of course a Mini is much easier with the single carb, plus I had the bonnet on quick release hinges so it came off easily..

    You will definitely see the cruise mixture, I was quite surprised how good it was, not worth messing with IMHO

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  • marshman
    replied
    Originally posted by trunt View Post

    Yes that would work, just needs a clean 12v and a ground, I put a relay on mine so that it was not fed by the “dirty” ignition line. I thought about putting a plug in both down pipes but in the end felt it was pointless.

    Being carbs the numbers wonder a little, but you can see what’s going on. Mine sits at about 15 on cruise, 16 would be nicer, and 12.5 -13 on accelerating, 11.5- 12 would be the ideal but even putting 40 wt oil in the dash pots didn’t change that much . strange. But it’s not leaning out so all is well.
    Thanks. Running lean whilst on long runs "cruising" down the motorway is my main concern. All the home tuning you can do tends to be at idle / no load. Rolling roads are costly - this could be a good compromise - especially as I said I can use it on several cars. Just need to work out how you determine which bit of the metering needle is "being" used at various times - might drill a couple of holes in the bonnet and put a couple of graduated sticks on top of the pistons Life was so much easier with leaded fuel when you could see the change in colour of the spark pugs and exhaust tail pipe.

    Probably wasting my time, I have lived without knowing the AFR for the last 40 years, but it is something else to play with and put on the shelf in the man cave

    Leave a comment:


  • trunt
    replied
    Originally posted by marshman View Post

    I have been looking at these, thought it just need to put a boss on each of my cars and I can then move the kit form car to car to "set them up" then remove and screw in a blanking plug.

    Roger
    Yes that would work, just needs a clean 12v and a ground, I put a relay on mine so that it was not fed by the “dirty” ignition line. I thought about putting a plug in both down pipes but in the end felt it was pointless.

    Being carbs the numbers wonder a little, but you can see what’s going on. Mine sits at about 15 on cruise, 16 would be nicer, and 12.5 -13 on accelerating, 11.5- 12 would be the ideal but even putting 40 wt oil in the dash pots didn’t change that much . strange. But it’s not leaning out so all is well.

    Leave a comment:


  • bullstarz
    replied
    I have a PLX sensor (https://www.plxdevices.com/PLX-Wideb...uges-s/125.htm ) just so I can see what’s going on with the gauge, then an AEM (https://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...afr-controller) for the ECU. You can get any system, it doesn’t have to be one of the top one, as they are not being used as a reference to fuelling real-time. They will still set you back a min of 150. Well worth it some do Bluetooth as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • trunt
    replied
    Originally posted by StagJonno View Post

    Terry, looks like it uses a serial port connector. If so, is this compatible with a USB-Serial converter or do I need to hang onto an old laptop?
    I have a usb/serial adaptor cable, works fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • marshman
    replied
    Originally posted by StagJonno View Post

    Terry, looks like it uses a serial port connector. If so, is this compatible with a USB-Serial converter or do I need to hang onto an old laptop?
    I have been looking at these, thought it just need to put a boss on each of my cars and I can then move the kit form car to car to "set them up" then remove and screw in a blanking plug. Anyway, according to the instruction manual:

    "Connect the OUT port of the LC-2 to the provided serial programming cable. Connect the other end of the serial programming cable to your computer. If your computer does not have a serial port, you can purchase a USB to Serial adapter from Innovate Motorsports (P/N 3733) or use any USB to serial adaptor that includes drivers."

    https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/...C-2_Manual.pdf


    The going rate in the UK for the complete kit including Bosch sensor (the most commonly used one) seems to be in the 160 to 180 region. From the USA it is around 140 but with 40 shipping plus customs duty!!

    Roger

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  • StagJonno
    replied
    Originally posted by trunt View Post
    About $50 more than in USA..

    I have always (well both times!) used the innovate one.. it’s generally the best value available for a wide band.. maybe shop around a bit?
    Terry, looks like it uses a serial port connector. If so, is this compatible with a USB-Serial converter or do I need to hang onto an old laptop?

    Leave a comment:


  • trunt
    replied
    Once the COVID ends get someone going to Disneyworld to bring it back!!

    Terry

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  • Sheepdip
    replied
    Originally posted by trunt View Post
    About $50 more than in USA..

    I have always (well both times!) used the innovate one.. it’s generally the best value available for a wide and.. maybe shop around a bit?
    Given me some ideas - thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • trunt
    replied
    About $50 more than in USA..

    I have always (well both times!) used the innovate one.. it’s generally the best value available for a wide band.. maybe shop around a bit?
    Last edited by trunt; 9 June 2021, 00:18.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sheepdip
    replied
    Originally posted by trunt View Post

    No problem..

    Its an innovate LC2 sensor driver with Bosch O2 sensor. You can buy them without any gauge and use the free software they have to give a gauge on a laptop or suchlike, I’m not bothered about watching it in normal driving, just when I’m tuning so just hook the laptop up then. The advantage is that the “gauge” is as big as the laptop screen so easily read. I mounted the device on top of the relay board and ran the laptop cable into the glovebox.

    It comes with a sensor plug which I welded into the left down pipe around the starter area. From either side you can read both carbs anyway. I set the needles exactly the same and then adjust them equally to get a good reading, I usually go for around 13.5 -14 AFR, slightly rich of stoichiometric at idle. After a few drives I check the plugs on each carb (2 and 4 are convenient) to make sure they look the same, if not tweak one and reset the AFR

    Terry
    Thanks Terry, did a quick search - is this the unit? Bit pricey!, are there alternatives for cheaper sensors and laptop s/w do you know? https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/inno...oller-2005080/

    Leave a comment:


  • trunt
    replied
    Originally posted by Sheepdip View Post

    Any more info on the sensor please?
    No problem..

    Its an innovate LC2 sensor driver with Bosch O2 sensor. You can buy them without any gauge and use the free software they have to give a gauge on a laptop or suchlike, I’m not bothered about watching it in normal driving, just when I’m tuning so just hook the laptop up then. The advantage is that the “gauge” is as big as the laptop screen so easily read. I mounted the device on top of the relay board and ran the laptop cable into the glovebox.

    It comes with a sensor plug which I welded into the left down pipe around the starter area. From either side you can read both carbs anyway. I set the needles exactly the same and then adjust them equally to get a good reading, I usually go for around 13.5 -14 AFR, slightly rich of stoichiometric at idle. After a few drives I check the plugs on each carb (2 and 4 are convenient) to make sure they look the same, if not tweak one and reset the AFR

    Terry

    Leave a comment:


  • Sheepdip
    replied
    Originally posted by trunt View Post

    OK

    Yes, all the Stromberg carbs from 71 on seem to have them here, no matter what car, maybe in Australia later on as well.. I’ll keep that in mind before I jump in next time! I adjusted them 2 turns out yesterday and yet to test, the MGB needs some loving.

    My stainless exhaust looks stock but is pretty loud, I’m sure that’s the main reason for my popping, no major leaks(I did a test with the blow of a vacuum and soapy water) and I have a wide band O2 so know the mixture is fine.. all I have to do is crack that throttle and it quiets down.. the quest continues!
    Any more info on the sensor please?

    Leave a comment:


  • trunt
    replied
    Originally posted by richardthestag View Post

    I don't think so, Stag was a very long time out of production before Englandshire got anywhere near Californian levels of emission control
    OK

    Yes, all the Stromberg carbs from 71 on seem to have them here, no matter what car, maybe in Australia later on as well.. I’ll keep that in mind before I jump in next time! I adjusted them 2 turns out yesterday and yet to test, the MGB needs some loving.

    My stainless exhaust looks stock but is pretty loud, I’m sure that’s the main reason for my popping, no major leaks(I did a test with the blow of a vacuum and soapy water) and I have a wide band O2 so know the mixture is fine.. all I have to do is crack that throttle and it quiets down.. the quest continues!

    Leave a comment:

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