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Torque setting for Inlet manifold bolts?

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    Torque setting for Inlet manifold bolts?

    On the few occasions I have taken my green machine out this winter, the engine starts off lumpy till it's warmed up then is perfectly smooth. Looking around for possible loose connections, or HT leads touching up against things they should not, I noticed for the first time since the engine rebuild water in the V nearest the bulkhead. Speaking with my local Stag Specialist, he is pretty confident the problem is one or more of the inlet manifold nuts needs to be tightened a "tadge".

    On paper this is a fairly simple job as access can be gained by removing the air intake elbows. The bolts are steel whilst the head is aluminium. I am nonetheless nervous I could strip the thread if I apply too much pressure.I would rather do so with a torque wrench so as not to over do it. Does anyone know is there is a torque setting for these bolts?

    #2
    20lbs/ft, It could be the water pump , if the car has been left sitting for a while, I would also just put a spanner on the inlet manifold nuts at first.

    Martin
    Last edited by MandM; 21 February 2021, 13:24.
    "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

    Comment


      #3
      IIRC you'll be pretty pushed to get a socket and torque wrench on to all of those boltheads.
      The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

      Comment


        #4
        You can't get one on all of them, especially the front two near the water pump. All you can do like Martin said is tighten them up with a spanner - and a long one at that for the fronts.

        You can see Hans doing it in this video at 4.50 from the Brothers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OId08cslg4

        Jeff

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          #5
          Thanks Jeff. It looks easy there without the carburettors in situ. I am hoping to do this with just the inlet elbows removed! So a spanner it will be. I will also have a look around the water pump as Martin suggested. But I’m pretty sure it’s the inlet manifold given the car has been sitting unused in the garage. The weather this week is looking set to be warmer so I will be out there and then report further.
          thanks all.

          Comment


            #6
            I had a slight weep from mine when I first took the manifold off a few years ago when tracing a water leak. I could see it was pooling near bulkhead end with no trail from the water pump, I managed to get a spanner in to nip the bolt up a little and that stopped it.
            Mind you when it was cooling down the water pump seal then joined the party, that was easier to spot by parking the car pointing down a slope a little then crawling across the engine with a torch to see where the water was.
            So the perfectly sealed manifold came off (again) and the water pump removed (with the user of a slide hammer) to reveal a worn seal.
            If you do strip manifold threads it's not a big issue to helicoil, I ended up doing about 3 or 4 of mine with a helicoil kit, tempted to do all of them at the time but resisted.

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              #7
              I can report that the offside 6 bolts to the inlet manifold were indeed far from tight. They were awkward to get at even with the carburettor elbows removed. Now to attack the Nearside and then a test run during this .lovely bright spell.

              Comment


                #8
                I did read of an owners experience where they found their inlet manifold held in with silicon only! While some say the pressure is relativly low at 20PSI rating I would not have thought it would have held

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                  #9
                  I could torque the top of each of the 3 bolts but thé 2 bottom ones for each port had to be subject to an offset ring spanner. I did them tight, but not super tight. Helicoiling is outside my experience and tool kit.

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