Clutch questions

[sujitroy]

I'm having to press my foot to the floor to engage any gear. Getting into reverse seems to be the most difficult. The clutch is not slipping when engaged. I'm aware the cross shaft has 3 slots in it where I can connect the slave cylinders push rod into. I plan to re-bleed the clutch system. The bleed valve is higher than the feed.
In my box of left overs I have a push rod which is 6.5" I cant recall the length of the original shaft, but this was way longer. I'm thinking of using this longer push rod. Does anyone recall how much free movement the push rod has before the throw-out bearing makes contact with the splines of the pressure plate. Alternatively, I could put a small spacer between push run and cylinder I've heard that has been done as well.
Sujit

[Lingen]

Sujit.
Do not be tempted to alter the length of the pushrod, or fit washers etc. The system is self adjusting to allow for wear of the centre plate while maintaining the correct pedal travel.
Lengthening the rod, fitting an external spring and other such nasty modifications are not the answer.
The pushrod travel should be no less than 5/8" when the pedal is depressed, to get the clutch to disengage. If it is less than that, then I expect there is air somewhere in the hydraulic system.The pushrod should be connected to the bottom hole of the cross shaft drop arm. However, raising it to the middle hole might give you the extra clearance you need for full disengagement. I will assume that there isn't too much carpet behind the clutch pedal!
Mike.

[ukbiggles]

Hi

I had a similar-ish problem, where the clutch had been fine for years, then suddenly it was hard to select a gear and the biting point moved very close to the floor. If it was the first press of the pedal, it wouldn't be too bad, but repeated use of the pedal would give this situation. Turned out the slave cylinder was failing. A new one fixed the problem.

Cheers

Gord

[tonyh]

Clutch rod should be in the middle hole of the clutch fork. Clutch cover bolts may be too long, if you have taken out an old style Laycock clutch cover plate and fitted a new style clutch cover, the bolts for the new cover plate will bottom out allowing the centre plate to drag, you should have at least 5/8th inch on the push rod, if the travel is correct then the cover bolts are too long, they should not exceed 3/4inch.

[trunt]

The slave can be difficult to bleed, try disconnecting the rod then opening the bleed nipple while pushing the rod back to eject fluid and hopefully any air out, keep hold of the rod! The internal spring will pop the piston out - guess how I know?

Also make sure you mounted it with the bleed nipple on top.

Terry

[sujitroy]

All good points thanks. I think another thing which may help is to raise the back of the car and get under it, instead of the front. Hoping that way the air in the cylinder will be closer to the bleed valve and not the other end. I used a Might Vac the last time to bleed the system with the car on ramps at the front.
Sujit

[sujitroy]

Got under the car this morning and moved the boot and fluid came out so need to get a new slave cylinder. Did some Googling and have seen some described as long throw for the TR6 but needs a matching master cylinder" "We also have available a Long Throw version to be used with the .70 clutch master cylinder for an improved clutch pedal--just search our eBay store." Since the cylinder shares the same part number, is there an equivalent clutch master cylinder for the Stag? If so, can this long throw be used on the Stag?
Also prices in the US are all over the place ranging from 16$ all the way up beyond $50 from non branded ones to branded ones. The $16 one is from a reputable seller here in USA

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/clutch-slave-cylinder-tr250-tr6.html

It should be OK
Sujit

[Phil S]

smaller bore longer travel

[sujitroy]

has anyone tried one of these with the standard master cylinder

[trunt]

I think they are meant to be used with standard masters.. The point is that the standard cylinder pumps out a certain volume of fluid, if the slave is smaller diameter then it will travel further. But.. the effort would go up.

Why are you even thinking of this? Any reason to think a regular slave would not work?

Terry

[sujitroy]

I just ordered a regular one locally. Prices are all over the place for non branded ones verses branded ones. I just ordered a $16 one. The guys from BPNW sells quite a few of these and have been selling them for sometime.
Sujit

[barkerwilliams]

If it turns out not to be cylinder consider the cross shaft pin part no 158777this breaks in the cross shaft and absorbs the rotating movement but is really, really difficult to see with the gearbox in place. Well known for snapping in the TR6's

If it turns out to be the pin do not replace "as-is" but drill and fit a second bolt or pin through the cross shaft which prevents future breaking.

Alan

[sujitroy]

Hello Alan,
I was pondering about this pin for sometime, but installed a hardened one in the end. The ones I pulled out were OK. I didn't bother with extra bolt that has been mentioned before. Both master cylinder and slave cylinders are leaking. My stupidity for rebuilding old units even thought they looked perfect to the naked eye. I'm having my master cylinder resleeved. I like the look of the original one. That indentation in the body of the master cylinder to get around the brake servo just gets to me on how much engineering was involved to get it to fit.
Sujit