Lost headlights on dipped beam both sides

[trunt]

You mentioned you have HID's, are you sure the installer did not also install relay(s)?

1. Whip off the outer grills
2. Pull out the outer headlamp buckets - LEAVE THE HEADLIGHT IN THE BUCKET. That will keep the aiming intact. Be sure to protect headlamp lenses from scratches.
3. On LHD the main wire feed is behind the drivers bucket, so probably behind the drivers on RHD
4. Find the Blue/Pink wire (LH Outer headlamp)
5. Find the Blue/Red wire (RH Outer headlamp)
6. Make sure that is how they are currently wired
7. Set multimeter to 20V AC
8. Check multimeter across battery terminals to ensure it is working; Red probe to +, Black probe to -
9. Turn headlights on
10. check voltage on Blue/Pink and Blue/Red wires at the load side (headlamps)
11. Check voltage at the line side (fuse box) on the Blue wire

Finding a break:
Check continuity from the Blue wire at fusebox to the Blue/pink and Blue/Red

1. Power OFF
2. Set multimeter to ohms
3. get long scrap wire 10-15' is plenty
4. Pull Blue wire from fuse box (you can pull the fuse and us and alligator clip on the fusebox connection from the engine compartment too - this is much easier on the back, neck, shoulders etc)
5. make a temp connection of the scrap wire to Blue wire
6. Take the other end of the scrap wire to front of the car
7. Put one probe to the scrap end and the other probe to the Blue/Red and Blue/Pink
8. If the reading is ">1.0" then you have a break in the wire or maybe a hidden relay somewhere
9. If the reading is below 1.0, so 0.2, you should be ok

RELAYS! nobody mentioned relays! did cross my mind that his red/blue wire was not the actual loom one, but...

Just a couple of points..

20v DC

and if you pull blue wire it will disconnect from fuse box best use the fuseholder in the engine bay as RNF says, leave it all connected.

Terry

[maverick]

Terry,Dave,DJT and RNF, SOLVED

Thank you for all your help,moving the blue and white wire to post 4 has solved this problem.

Its very hard for me to explain how i feel now because im elated and relieved to have sorted this,(thank you Terry for sticking with me) and being eagle eyed) ,but Im absolutely fuming because the absolute ars...ole ,that messed up my car radio wiring also messed up my fuses connections !!

I dont really trust anybody to work on my car and this just bears this out.No one takes as much care on you on your car as you,and thankfully with the aid of the forum you can do most stuff.
I did my due diligence on this guy out of yell.com ,read his reviews etc and he was absolutely uselss

DJT, ive finally worked out wher to put the plastic squares on the grill screws to stop them moving !!

I know i say thanks often to you people ,but I am vrery gratefull P1050756.JPG

Thanks to all once again,

Kind Regards and Stay safe

Mark

[trunt]

OK good news, what the heck the red/blue wire had to do with it we will never know!! they were obviously fed from the Blue/pink.

It was probably just a bit of wire they used, not the actual loom wire? ahh well it works

[RNF]

OK good news, what the heck the red/blue wire had to do with it we will never know!! they were obviously fed from the Blue/pink.

It was probably just a bit of wire they used, not the actual loom wire? ahh well it works

The original wiring chart says
The Blue wire joins to the Blue/Pink which feeds the LH Headlight
The Blue wire joins to the Blue/Red which feeds the RH Headlight

Stag Headlamps.JPG

Why the hell someone decided to change colors is what makes this a Stag

[trunt]

So on a rhd car does the loom run up the left side wing like the lhd car?

terry

[mjheathcote]

Cheers Mike i will have a root round,but does that mean that if the mainbeam works ok the earth is likely to be good?

Mark

No, the corrosion can be in the bullet connector, they are really rubbish!!
One side the bullet makes a good earth connection in the barrel, the other side does not!

[new to this]

glad you got it sorted,i thought they had just stopped working,but really someone working on the car messed things up

[maverick]

glad you got it sorted,i thought they had just stopped working,but really someone working on the car messed things up

Thanks Dave,yes an idiot of a autoelectrician,of course I didnt know this till I found out the lights didnt work,but not knowing the correct position of all the contacts on back of fuseboard back there was no way for me to tell the lead had been moved.Its cost me alot of aggro trying to get to the bottom of it

Thanks for your support

Cheers Mark

[maverick]

The original wiring chart says
The Blue wire joins to the Blue/Pink which feeds the LH Headlight
The Blue wire joins to the Blue/Red which feeds the RH Headlight

Stag Headlamps.JPG

Why the hell someone decided to change colors is what makes this a Stag

Hi RNF
Thanks for your input to my thread,
Your wiring diagram is much better than the one i have been struggling with ,it had much detail missing,can I ask where you got it from? and how much

Thank you Mark

[RNF]

Hi RNF
Thanks for your input to my thread,
Your wiring diagram is much better than the one i have been struggling with ,it had much detail missing,can I ask where you got it from? and how much

Thank you Mark

I think I got it off the Grampian Stag site.
StagColouredWiringDiagram.pdf

[trunt]

Mark,

Did you ever find out just why someone replaced the fan fuse in the fusebox with an inline one? Its either due to the rivet problem I mentioned or ignorance..

If you are feeling brave check the spot and if its OK reconnect those two wires to the correct spot on the fusebox and see if its OK?

I sometimes feel that people would do better by studying the circuit a little to really understand how the power flows. Yes, a bad ground could cause both lights to fail, but so could many other things. once you have that then the "half split" method is a great way to go, in this case, power on the blue wire at the fusebox means the switch and supply are fine, the problem is on the other half. the next half split was finding the actual blue/red and blue/pink wires up front. power there? then that half is OK. and so on...

I was pushing along the line that the blue red should have power.. in the end I fear there were other changes done that prevented the power getting there and we never did find out exactly how it was re-wired for the HID's was there really only one ballast? or was there another sneaking around somewhere? maybe fed by the blue/pink and looped to the other one? It may be interesting to pull the fuse for the right headlamp and see if they still work!

Terry

[maverick]

Mark,

Did you ever find out just why someone replaced the fan fuse in the fusebox with an inline one? Its either due to the rivet problem I mentioned or ignorance..

If you are feeling brave check the spot and if its OK reconnect those two wires to the correct spot on the fusebox and see if its OK?

I sometimes feel that people would do better by studying the circuit a little to really understand how the power flows. Yes, a bad ground could cause both lights to fail, but so could many other things. once you have that then the "half split" method is a great way to go, in this case, power on the blue wire at the fusebox means the switch and supply are fine, the problem is on the other half. the next half split was finding the actual blue/red and blue/pink wires up front. power there? then that half is OK. and so on...

I was pushing along the line that the blue red should have power.. in the end I fear there were other changes done that prevented the power getting there and we never did find out exactly how it was re-wired for the HID's was there really only one ballast? or was there another sneaking around somewhere? maybe fed by the blue/pink and looped to the other one? It may be interesting to pull the fuse for the right headlamp and see if they still work!

Terry

Hi Terry,
I dont know why someone messed about with the fan fuse,it has always been like that in the 2o yrs Iv had the car,weird because there is a fuse in the fuse box on the fan place setting.I only disconnected it because I noticed the one of the wire connectors to the fuse was very frayed in in my naivatiy in trying to sort the headlamp problem I thought Id better replace that as it might be responsible.
This was before i understood the wiring diagram ,as it had wire colours missing

My knowledge on car electronics and the use of a multi meter was very weak,but thanks to you and other contributors Im feeling more confident and although a very frustrating experience i have learned alot.
and I agree the split method is a logical way to progress.

Im sorry if i somehow misled you but there are two ballasts ,1 each side,the problem was purely down to the headlamp fed connection in the wrong place on the fuseboard.

It was well spotted by you ,......thank you

[maverick]

I think I got it off the Grampian Stag site.
[ATTACH]n811972[/ATTACH]

Thanks very much mate,
Thats a much better version,much clearer than the one I was trying to work form

[trunt]

Haha, been using half split on radar, flight sims and Cat scanners for 50 odd years, first thing the RAF taught me I think (maybe second, jump when the Sgt says jump was probably the first)

But there is still something funky there because that blue/red at the rh ballast should have had power - that’s if it’s the actual wire from the loom and if so It should have lit one of the lights!

My guess is that someone cut that wire and used it to loop the two ballasts together, (or used a random bit of blue/red) and that’s why both lights seem to be working off of the blue/pink and you can’t find the power on the blue/red without blue/pink connected.

if the grill is still off it may be worth a bit of investigation for next time you loose a bulb or something!

Otherwise it’s working, be happy!