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Drive shafts uprated or standard ?

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  • mike@thenook
    replied
    The Datsun sliding shafts are the best you can get.
    they are scarce now though.


    I have a pair sitting on my garage floor waiting for me to re-build the hubs - I only took them off the car as I mistakenly thought one of the hubs was rumbling but having then gone and bought a set of CDD hubs and shafts complete (which are excellent) but pricey.
    I'm open to offers for the Datsun ones - they are perfect but I would probably only as they are off the car re-build the hubs for my own satisfaction, either that or I'll put them back on the car and sell the CDD ones at a discount as the Datsun ones are by far the stronger units.

    Cheers

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  • Paul Kelley
    replied
    I totally endorse Motorsport Micky's post about the importance of replacing - with new - stub axles at the front and hubs at the back. I have fitted the CDD cv driveshafts and hubs and new stub axles. Along with your tyres and brakes, these are the single most important safety consideration. Don't forget too suspension, especially trailing arm fixing points. If any of these parts fail you could lose control and you really don't want to hit anything in these old cars. Unfortunately it doesn't make any difference whether you are doing 100 miles a year or 10,000, a failure is a failure and the consequences the same. In many ways the least used Stags are the ones to worry about most as sitting around does any car no good, whereas regular use helps to sort out weak spots.

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  • MandM
    replied
    Originally posted by Goldstar View Post
    Not all sweetness and light though. I had a cv joint break. The carrier for the ball bearings cracked which meant the joint was completely knackered. No repair parts available (I tried quite hard) so 1,000 to replace (UK distributor won't sell me one although I could get one from the OE supplier). Not great.
    It begs the question of how many of these parts where tested to destruction and in what environment and conditions, was it to the same standard as Triumph did?,

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  • jbuckl
    replied
    Originally posted by Motorsport Micky View Post

    Yes 240Z and 260Z from memory. as DJT says they need the Hybrid Tri Dat joints which Greg Tunstall in Aussie land, used to be able to get when converting the Datsun 180B driveshafts was the modification to make. I found maybe the last Datsun 180B going into a scrapyard and checked with Greg the driveshafts would work (they also made a "live axle" version ! (who knew ?) I organised buying the driveshafts but then the number of collapsing rear hubs /or snapping stub axles on these Stags or TRs (with the same independent "Innsbruk" independent suspension setup) preyed upon my mind and the lure of CV driveshafts complete with new hubs, quality bearing and new stub axles seemed a much better idea. I donated the Datsun contact details to another Stag owner off the forum for him to pursue and buy.
    The 240Z models come up on e bay occasionally although years since I've seen a UK contact mostly from the US, they seem to make around the $300 US dollar mark plus postage, then figure in the "Frankendrive" joints and machining costs etc etc and the new CV driveshafts and hubs compare well.

    Micky
    The Datsun sliding shafts are the best you can get.
    they are scarce now though.
    to fit them it only requires a reaming operation.
    fwiw the ccd shafts are a simple upgrade at a significant cost.

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  • jbuckl
    replied
    Deleted as was duplicated.
    Last edited by jbuckl; 21 October 2020, 02:01.

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  • MandM
    replied
    The splines sticking make the twitch, so add a grease nipple simples, there is no easy way of greasing the outer, but if you have a nipple you get the choice, if you also drill a hole in the plastic dirt covers of the inner uj you can line it up with the nipple a grease that from under the car, changing the trailing arm bushes also helps a lot with the twitch as said above

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  • DJT
    replied
    Originally posted by Lingen View Post
    There is no easy way. You have to unbolt the hub from the trailing arm and pull it away from the back plate till you can get at the grease nipple, assuming there is one. This can be done without disturbing the brakes in any way, but the drive shaft will probably separate at the splines.
    Mike.
    See post #29...........

    My question, in post #32, was in response to M&M's post #30.
    Last edited by DJT; 19 October 2020, 19:50.

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  • Lingen
    replied
    P.S. An ideal opportunity to grease the splines as well. I use that graphited stuff for constant velocity joints.
    Mike.

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  • Lingen
    replied
    There is no easy way. You have to unbolt the hub from the trailing arm and pull it away from the back plate till you can get at the grease nipple, assuming there is one. This can be done without disturbing the brakes in any way, but the drive shaft will probably separate at the splines.
    Mike.

    Leave a comment:


  • DJT
    replied
    Originally posted by MandM View Post
    I added grease nipples to the splined section
    P1030481.JPG simples
    Yes, but how do you grease the outer universal joint........?

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  • Adrian B
    replied
    Excellent,thanks for that....

    Leave a comment:


  • MandM
    replied
    I added grease nipples to the splined section
    P1030481.JPG simples

    Leave a comment:


  • DJT
    replied
    Originally posted by MandM View Post

    +1 that's what I've done , but also added grease nipples , works a treat. The first time I experienced the stag twitch I thought the rear wheels were falling off, not had that happen since doing the above.
    Yes, I looked at the grease nipple mod, but decided not to bother. Unless you have so-called ‘sealed for life’ universal joints, it is impossible to grease the outer joint without removing the shaft. Even with the Datsun shafts, the same problem exists. Last week I did mine. It took 1.1/2 hours to do the pair, using a Jack and axle stand, one side at a time and turning the car around between sides. OE type shafts take a little longer to include cleaning/greasing the splines.

    1. Slacken wheel nuts
    2. Jack up rear and place axle stand beneath spring
    3. Remove wheel
    4. Remove brake drum
    5. Remove 6x nyloc nuts
    6. Remove inner flange to diff bolts
    7. Withdraw shaft out through trailing arm (you will need to use a large screwdriver to lever the brake shoe springs aside to get the outer hub past them).
    8. Check and lubricate universal joints
    9. Separate two halves of shaft (OE type), clean splines and grease
    10. Reassemble, have a cup of tea and do the other side.
    Last edited by DJT; 19 October 2020, 10:04.

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  • MandM
    replied
    Originally posted by DJT View Post

    The ‘twitch’ can be virtually eliminated by separating the two halves of the driveshaft, cleaning all the dry grease and cr@p out, then reassembling with CV joint grease (Molyslip). Poly bushes on the trailing arms helps too.
    +1 that's what I've done , but also added grease nipples , works a treat. The first time I experienced the stag twitch I thought the rear wheels were falling off, not had that happen since doing the above.

    Leave a comment:


  • DJT
    replied
    Originally posted by Adrian B View Post
    Thanks for the info on this,maybe put up with the "twitch" for a while longer(to tight thats my problem,1000 plus is pretty expensive but worth it in the end i expect)!!
    The ‘twitch’ can be virtually eliminated by separating the two halves of the driveshaft, cleaning all the dry grease and cr@p out, then reassembling with CV joint grease (Molyslip). Poly bushes on the trailing arms helps too.

    Leave a comment:

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