CDD shafts and hubs - basically as with almost anything you get what you pay for and these are excellent units.
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Originally posted by trunt View PostI saw some at Rimmer they look like CDD ones.. but are there others that supply CV driveshafts?
Any comments on the quality of the choices?
Terry
complete with wheel hub - improved version with constant velocity joints and ball bearing sliding shafts
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35 years ago I saw a college lecturer separate a triumph rear hub on a 50 ton press. It was loaded to 50 tons. It didn’t separate for a while. When it did, the drive flange had distorted a lot.
So when I needed to split one I made a puller, which fits through the stud holes & uses a fine pitch m20 thread to create the separation force.
there is a nasty transition in the spindle machining which can be a stress concentration. Not all are as bad though.
never had any issues after rebuilds yet & the puller has done quite a few.
best to run the bearings in for an hour or so before setting the preload.
recommend using chris witor splined shafts if the originals are worn.
Noticed CCD are also selling a kit to improve the trailing arm studs. (£90 a side?)
Haven’t tried it as the 5/16 Unc helicoils and studs seem to be an effective way & a lot lower cost.There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
2.
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A bit off track. Many moons ago a work mate had a Renault 16 which had worn out its front CV drive shafts. We stripped them and I hard bronze braized the bearing tracks and carefu[[y dressed them back with a hand held grinder to ensure a good fit. Back in the car they worked very well with no noise or clonks. Lasted approx. 18 months
Cheers Ian A
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Originally posted by mallardstag View PostPaul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't
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Originally posted by Adrian B View PostSilly question regarding this driveshaft topic,i heard that Datson "Z" shafts fit??are they still obtainable if this is true,and are they a straight conversion??Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
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Originally posted by Adrian B View PostSilly question regarding this driveshaft topic,i heard that Datson "Z" shafts fit??are they still obtainable if this is true,and are they a straight conversion??
The 240Z models come up on e bay occasionally although years since I've seen a UK contact mostly from the US, they seem to make around the $300 US dollar mark plus postage, then figure in the "Frankendrive" joints and machining costs etc etc and the new CV driveshafts and hubs compare well.
Micky
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Originally posted by Adrian B View PostThanks for the info on this,maybe put up with the "twitch" for a while longer(to tight thats my problem,£1000 plus is pretty expensive but worth it in the end i expect)!!Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
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Originally posted by DJT View Post
The ‘twitch’ can be virtually eliminated by separating the two halves of the driveshaft, cleaning all the dry grease and cr@p out, then reassembling with CV joint grease (Molyslip). Poly bushes on the trailing arms helps too."The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX
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Originally posted by MandM View Post
+1 that's what I've done , but also added grease nipples , works a treat. The first time I experienced the stag twitch I thought the rear wheels were falling off, not had that happen since doing the above.
1. Slacken wheel nuts
2. Jack up rear and place axle stand beneath spring
3. Remove wheel
4. Remove brake drum
5. Remove 6x nyloc nuts
6. Remove inner flange to diff bolts
7. Withdraw shaft out through trailing arm (you will need to use a large screwdriver to lever the brake shoe springs aside to get the outer hub past them).
8. Check and lubricate universal joints
9. Separate two halves of shaft (OE type), clean splines and grease
10. Reassemble, have a cup of tea and do the other side.Last edited by DJT; 19 October 2020, 09:04.Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
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