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Drive shafts uprated or standard ?

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    #16
    CDD shafts and hubs - basically as with almost anything you get what you pay for and these are excellent units.
    Mike

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      #17
      Thank you all very much for your help in this matter. I have ordered a pair of uprated driveshafts, so with a bit of luck i hope to be fitting them next weekend. Thank you all once again for your help.

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        #18

        I saw some at Rimmer they look like CDD ones.. but are there others that supply CV driveshafts?
        Any comments on the quality of the choices?

        Terry
        Last edited by trunt; 17 October 2020, 17:22.
        Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

        www.terryhunt.co.uk

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          #19
          Originally posted by trunt View Post
          I saw some at Rimmer they look like CDD ones.. but are there others that supply CV driveshafts?
          Any comments on the quality of the choices?

          Terry
          SC Parts advertise their own on the SOC magazine.

          complete with wheel hub - improved version with constant velocity joints and ball bearing sliding shafts

          Last edited by mallardstag; 17 October 2020, 17:51. Reason: Full link added

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            #20
            35 years ago I saw a college lecturer separate a triumph rear hub on a 50 ton press. It was loaded to 50 tons. It didn’t separate for a while. When it did, the drive flange had distorted a lot.
            So when I needed to split one I made a puller, which fits through the stud holes & uses a fine pitch m20 thread to create the separation force.
            there is a nasty transition in the spindle machining which can be a stress concentration. Not all are as bad though.
            never had any issues after rebuilds yet & the puller has done quite a few.
            best to run the bearings in for an hour or so before setting the preload.
            recommend using chris witor splined shafts if the originals are worn.
            Noticed CCD are also selling a kit to improve the trailing arm studs. (£90 a side?)
            Haven’t tried it as the 5/16 Unc helicoils and studs seem to be an effective way & a lot lower cost.
            There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
            2.

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              #21
              A bit off track. Many moons ago a work mate had a Renault 16 which had worn out its front CV drive shafts. We stripped them and I hard bronze braized the bearing tracks and carefu[[y dressed them back with a hand held grinder to ensure a good fit. Back in the car they worked very well with no noise or clonks. Lasted approx. 18 months
              Cheers Ian A

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                #22
                Originally posted by mallardstag View Post
                SC Parts advertise their own on the SOC magazine.

                complete with wheel hub - improved version with constant velocity joints and ball bearing sliding shafts
                Mine were SC.
                Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

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                  #23
                  Silly question regarding this driveshaft topic,i heard that Datson "Z" shafts fit??are they still obtainable if this is true,and are they a straight conversion??

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Adrian B View Post
                    Silly question regarding this driveshaft topic,i heard that Datson "Z" shafts fit??are they still obtainable if this is true,and are they a straight conversion??
                    They are becoming rare now. As for fitting, the Hardy Spicer joints have a larger diameter journal, so the Triumph yoke at the hub end needs to be machined to fit. Hybrid Tri-Dat joints used to be available in Australia, at a price, but these may have dried up now. I bought a set in 2008 and they are still providing smooth, trouble-free service.
                    Dave
                    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Adrian B View Post
                      Silly question regarding this driveshaft topic,i heard that Datson "Z" shafts fit??are they still obtainable if this is true,and are they a straight conversion??
                      Yes 240Z and 260Z from memory. as DJT says they need the Hybrid Tri Dat joints which Greg Tunstall in Aussie land, used to be able to get when converting the Datsun 180B driveshafts was the modification to make. I found maybe the last Datsun 180B going into a scrapyard and checked with Greg the driveshafts would work (they also made a "live axle" version ! (who knew ?) I organised buying the driveshafts but then the number of collapsing rear hubs /or snapping stub axles on these Stags or TRs (with the same independent "Innsbruk" independent suspension setup) preyed upon my mind and the lure of CV driveshafts complete with new hubs, quality bearing and new stub axles seemed a much better idea. I donated the Datsun contact details to another Stag owner off the forum for him to pursue and buy.
                      The 240Z models come up on e bay occasionally although years since I've seen a UK contact mostly from the US, they seem to make around the $300 US dollar mark plus postage, then figure in the "Frankendrive" joints and machining costs etc etc and the new CV driveshafts and hubs compare well.

                      Micky

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                        #26
                        Thanks for the info on this,maybe put up with the "twitch" for a while longer(to tight thats my problem,£1000 plus is pretty expensive but worth it in the end i expect)!!

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Adrian B View Post
                          Thanks for the info on this,maybe put up with the "twitch" for a while longer(to tight thats my problem,£1000 plus is pretty expensive but worth it in the end i expect)!!
                          The ‘twitch’ can be virtually eliminated by separating the two halves of the driveshaft, cleaning all the dry grease and cr@p out, then reassembling with CV joint grease (Molyslip). Poly bushes on the trailing arms helps too.
                          Dave
                          1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by DJT View Post

                            The ‘twitch’ can be virtually eliminated by separating the two halves of the driveshaft, cleaning all the dry grease and cr@p out, then reassembling with CV joint grease (Molyslip). Poly bushes on the trailing arms helps too.
                            +1 that's what I've done , but also added grease nipples , works a treat. The first time I experienced the stag twitch I thought the rear wheels were falling off, not had that happen since doing the above.
                            "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by MandM View Post

                              +1 that's what I've done , but also added grease nipples , works a treat. The first time I experienced the stag twitch I thought the rear wheels were falling off, not had that happen since doing the above.
                              Yes, I looked at the grease nipple mod, but decided not to bother. Unless you have so-called ‘sealed for life’ universal joints, it is impossible to grease the outer joint without removing the shaft. Even with the Datsun shafts, the same problem exists. Last week I did mine. It took 1.1/2 hours to do the pair, using a Jack and axle stand, one side at a time and turning the car around between sides. OE type shafts take a little longer to include cleaning/greasing the splines.

                              1. Slacken wheel nuts
                              2. Jack up rear and place axle stand beneath spring
                              3. Remove wheel
                              4. Remove brake drum
                              5. Remove 6x nyloc nuts
                              6. Remove inner flange to diff bolts
                              7. Withdraw shaft out through trailing arm (you will need to use a large screwdriver to lever the brake shoe springs aside to get the outer hub past them).
                              8. Check and lubricate universal joints
                              9. Separate two halves of shaft (OE type), clean splines and grease
                              10. Reassemble, have a cup of tea and do the other side.
                              Last edited by DJT; 19 October 2020, 09:04.
                              Dave
                              1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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                                #30
                                I added grease nipples to the splined section
                                P1030481.JPG simples
                                "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

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