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    #16
    Yes. Fuel gauge and temperature gauge. Will stop working.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by mallardstag View Post
      Yes. Fuel gauge and temperature gauge. Will stop working.
      Thanks Mallard,much appreciated,is the just the one voltage reg?

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by maverick View Post

        Thanks Mallard,much appreciated,is the just the one voltage reg?
        Yes

        Comment


          #19
          many thanks
          Kind Regards

          Comment


            #20
            Now checked voltage regulator and Spyda tacho circuitery,both not guilty of crackle cause M,lord.
            Really at a loss what to check now

            any help really appreciated before I get into a straight jacket

            Comment


              #21
              Mark.
              Try setting up a 12 volt supply to the radio from a second battery not connected to the car. This might help to find if the crackle is from the power supply, or being received as radio interference.
              Mike.

              Comment


                #22
                Some more ideas....

                Some cheap USB chargers can create vast amounts of radio interference.

                ​​​​​​Unplug HT leads one at a time at the distributor, engine should run on 7 cylinders for testing.

                Remove the alternator belt to eliminate alternator noise.

                Check the earth straps from battery to body and to engine for corroded contacts.

                Remove all the fuses.


                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by maverick View Post
                  Now checked voltage regulator and Spyda tacho circuitery,both not guilty of crackle cause M,lord.
                  Really at a loss what to check now

                  any help really appreciated before I get into a straight jacket
                  Hi

                  I tried every suppression trick I could to stop mine, but the only thing that worked was switching to Magnecor leads. However I realise spending 100+ just to suppress radio noise may be excessive. They are great leads though!

                  Jeff

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Lingen View Post
                    Mark.
                    Try setting up a 12 volt supply to the radio from a second battery not connected to the car. This might help to find if the crackle is from the power supply, or being received as radio interference.
                    Mike.
                    Hi Lingen,
                    Hadnt thought of the that, the below average auto electrician ran a live lead from the fuse box as a simular idea to illiminate the ignition circuit,but this was to no avail
                    thank you for your help

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Hi Mallard really appreciate your efforts

                      Originally posted by mallardstag View Post
                      Some more ideas....

                      Some cheap USB chargers can create vast amounts of radio interference. NOT PRESENT

                      ​​​​​​Unplug HT leads one at a time at the distributor, engine should run on 7 cylinders for testing.GOOD IDEA

                      Remove the alternator belt to eliminate alternator noise.IVE DONE THIS IN FIRST FEW ROUNDS

                      Check the earth straps from battery to body and to engine for corroded contacts.IVE DONE THIS IN FIRST FEW ROUNDS


                      Remove all the fuses.IS THIS SAFE?,CAN YOU PLEASE ELABORATE IN HOW THIS WOULD SPOT THE CULPRIT,WILL THE ENGINE RUN?


                      Many thanks
                      Mallard thank you so much for your assistance,Caps are to deliniate form your text am not shouting

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by JeffW View Post

                        Hi

                        I tried every suppression trick I could to stop mine, but the only thing that worked was switching to Magnecor leads. However I realise spending 100+ just to suppress radio noise may be excessive. They are great leads though!

                        Jeff
                        Hi Jeff
                        Thanks The magnacors are the last step,@ 145,they are an expensive solution,
                        but appreciate your input

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Remove all the fuses.IS THIS SAFE?,CAN YOU PLEASE ELABORATE IN HOW THIS WOULD SPOT THE CULPRIT,WILL THE ENGINE RUN?
                          Yes it should be safe (after all that's the purpose of the fuses). Check that your electronic ignition takes its power from an unfused ignition supply (usually the inertia fuel cutout switch), also check that your radio power will not be affected (this would normally be taken from the AUX contact on the ignition switch and have its own in-line fuse). Yes the engine should run fine. IF the noise goes away then replacing the fuses one by one will give you a clue about where to look next.

                          Use insulated pliers/gloves when unplugging the HT leads with the engine running - otherwise it hurts!
                          Last edited by mallardstag; 16 October 2020, 11:34. Reason: Elaborated

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by mallardstag View Post

                            Yes it should be safe (after all that's the purpose of the fuses). Check that your electronic ignition takes its power from an unfused ignition supply (usually the inertia fuel cutout switch), also check that your radio power will not be affected (this would normally be taken from the AUX contact on the ignition switch and have its own in-line fuse). Yes the engine should run fine. IF the noise goes away then replacing the fuses one by one will give you a clue about where to look next.

                            Use insulated pliers/gloves when unplugging the HT leads with the engine running - otherwise it hurts!
                            Hi,I thought that fuses completed a circuit and if removed that cicuit was dead,please eloborate

                            I m sure my Luminition takes its supply from terminal in the fuse box,could I just leave the fuse for the luminition in place and test the others?

                            The auto electrician wired the yellow feed from the radio(constant feed from battery for clock /memeory etc as i understand)

                            ) direct to the fuse box in an attempt to rule out any problems from the ignition cicuit,but I think I can reconnect the radio back to its original format,ie the colour coded connectors,

                            I really appreciate your input and patience with me

                            Thank you

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Hi,I thought that fuses completed a circuit and if removed that cicuit was dead,please eloborate
                              That's correct, so this will eliminate all the fuse protected circuits as a source of noise. All the circuits required to start and run the engine are not fuse protected so that a blown fuse won't cause you to stop in the fast lane of the motorway. None of the fuse protected circuits should come to harm with the fuse removed (otherwise a blown fuse would cause problems).

                              I m sure my Luminition takes its supply from terminal in the fuse box,could I just leave the fuse for the luminition in place and test the others?
                              The luminition should take it's power from the unfused ignition feed (white wires) and not from a fused supply for the reason given above. It may be that this is how it's wired up but access to the wire is taken at the fuse box. Frequently the supply for the electronic ignition is taken from the pump side of the inertia switch to ensure the engine stops in the event of a collision.

                              The auto electrician wired the yellow feed from the radio(constant feed from battery for clock /memeory etc as i understand) direct to the fuse box in an attempt to rule out any problems from the ignition cicuit,but I think I can reconnect the radio back to its original format,ie the colour coded connectors,
                              This is OK if your radio needs a constant power supply (to remember station allocations etc) but it should have it's own in-line fuse to protect the wiring from a fault within the radio. If your radio doesn't need a constant supply it's best to take power from the AUX circuit (white/black wire from the ignition switch) and then there will be no battery power drain when the key is removed.

                              I really appreciate your input and patience with me
                              You're welcome - it's giving me something to think about that isn't work.

                              Do you have the old MK1 charging setup with the regulator and control box mounted on the RHS inner wing instead of within the alternator?
                              pic1.jpg

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by mallardstag View Post
                                Hi,I thought that fuses completed a circuit and if removed that cicuit was dead,please eloborate thanks understand now
                                That's correct, so this will eliminate all the fuse protected circuits as a source of noise. All the circuits required to start and run the engine are not fuse protected so that a blown fuse won't cause you to stop in the fast lane of the motorway. None of the fuse protected circuits should come to harm with the fuse removed (otherwise a blown fuse would cause problems).

                                I m sure my Luminition takes its supply from terminal in the fuse box,could I just leave the fuse for the luminition in place and test the others?

                                The luminition should take it's power from the unfused ignition feed (white wires) and not from a fused supply for the reason given above. It may be that this is how it's wired up but access to the wire is taken at the fuse box. Frequently the supply for the electronic ignition is taken from the pump side of the inertia switch to ensure the engine stops in the event of a collision. There is a pink wire from the illuminition loom that goes to the ignition control terminal bottom row

                                The auto electrician wired the yellow feed from the radio(constant feed from battery for clock /memeory etc as i understand) direct to the fuse box in an attempt to rule out any problems from the ignition cicuit,but I think I can reconnect the radio back to its original format,ie the colour coded connectors,
                                This is OK if your radio needs a constant power supply (to remember station allocations etc) but it should have it's own in-line fuse to protect the wiring from a fault within the radio. If your radio doesn't need a constant supply it's best to take power from the AUX circuit (white/black wire from the ignition switch) and then there will be no battery power drain when the key is removed. yes my radio needs it for memory settings

                                I really appreciate your input and patience with me
                                You're welcome - it's giving me something to think about that isn't work.

                                Do you have the old MK1 charging setup with the regulator and control box mounted on the RHS inner wing instead of within the alternator? there is a black box mounted on the
                                pic1.jpg
                                there is a black box mounted on the drivers side suspension turret is that what you mean?,my car is a mk1 1971

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