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Overdrive in 3rd OR 4th....

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    Overdrive in 3rd OR 4th....

    OK so overdrive stopped working in 4th but OK in 3rd. Fiddled with wires/connections below gearstick and on inhibitor.
    Occasional 4th overdrive, sometimes switches off whilst driving after engaging it?
    Any thoughts? I'd have thought it wouldn't work in either gear or in both, or is there any adjustment on the inhibitor switch. Thinking not solenoid or gear lever switch related as its OK in 3rd.
    Id be happy with just 4th overdrive if i could get it to work consistently.
    Thanks
    Ian
    1973 Stag 1982 Acclaim HL 1985 SD1 Vitesse 2006 BMW R1200GS
    2008 Skoda Octavia VRS

    #2
    Have you checked the oil level in the gearbox?

    Comment


      #3
      No, but thanks I'll check ASAP. Probably need to do that as now done 500 miles since I put the rebuilt box back in.
      1973 Stag 1982 Acclaim HL 1985 SD1 Vitesse 2006 BMW R1200GS
      2008 Skoda Octavia VRS

      Comment


        #4
        Sometimes there are shims under the gearbox switch, if any are there remove some?
        Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

        www.terryhunt.co.uk

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Matt Cook View Post
          Have you checked the oil level in the gearbox?
          Agreed - oil level

          Comment


            #6
            Could also be the wires up the gearstick breaking down internally so they make contact when the stick is pushed forwards for third but not when pulled back for fourth.
            Neil
            TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

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              #7
              struggled for ages trying to top up my gearbox oil till I noticed a removable plate on the gearbox tunnel

              Comment


                #8
                I would go with what Neil has said. Check the wires from the switch as they run down the gear lever - especially check where they flex going through the gaiter to the underneath of the car. Recently had an issue on my Dolly Sprint (similar set up) where the wire had chaffed and shorted to earth, took out the fuse hich also supplied indicators, all gauges, tacho, brake lights etc. (only 2 fuses on a Dolomite!).

                Might be easier to disconnect the feed wire from the solenoid and connect a light bulb on a long lead so you can see it from inside the car. You can then wiggle/flex/stretch the wires with the ignition on and overdrive fourth selected. If the light flickers or goes out when flexing / stretching the wires then there is your problem - pulling or stretching the wires is the best way to find a break, simply flexing or bending will not always find it. NOTE: if sitting with the ignition switched on and engine not running disconnect the ignition coil so that it does not over heat)

                Roger
                White TV8 BW35 no mods and now a Dolly Sprint to keep it company
                So many cars, so little time!

                Comment


                  #9
                  The wires in the gear lever are very thin. They then connect to the thick yellow wires at the base of wooden centre console panel. Not easy to get to but if you remove the connectors and plug the two yellow thick wires together, you are basically by-passing the switch. ((I recall one is yellow and one is yellow with a tracer). This is a good start. The detent on the 3/4 gear's top cover is on the same rail so I don't think removing a shim on the switch at the gearbox end will help, but this is Stag. Getting access to the wire on the end of the solenoid is not easy as the mount/ bracket gets in the way. Not sure if it is overkill, but I had a spare relay and added it.
                  Sujit

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                    #10
                    Thanks all, I unplugged the gear lever wires and connected across the two from loom and it worked fine on both 3rd and 4tj. So bough new gearstick wires, do old wires just pull out of gearstick
                    1973 Stag 1982 Acclaim HL 1985 SD1 Vitesse 2006 BMW R1200GS
                    2008 Skoda Octavia VRS

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Pull out easy enough but getting them back can be a PITA depending on how thick the new ones are.

                      Might be worth pulling through some thin string (stronger the better) as you pull the old wires out. It is getting the wire around the bend as it enters the lever that can cause problems, a gentle pull as you are pushing from the bottom can help considerably

                      Neil
                      Neil
                      TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Back when I had a MOD, these wires broke regularly. I bought some new ones from ANG and they fitted easily. Thin enough to feed in from below, through the hole part way up the gear lever. In order to make them last longer, I first fed them through a short length of windscreen washer tube, and jammed that in the bottom of the hole. Never had another failure.

                        https://www.angclassiccarparts.co.uk...om-stag-mki-ii
                        Dave
                        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks both re fitting instructions/tips
                          1973 Stag 1982 Acclaim HL 1985 SD1 Vitesse 2006 BMW R1200GS
                          2008 Skoda Octavia VRS

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