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    Radiator fit problem

    I cannot get a new 4 row core rad to fit. Whichever angle of approach I take, it is blocked by the pulley bolt head. On the first attempt I even damaged some of the fins as I was using a sheet of card and I did not immediately see what was happening. I then replaced the card with a thin sheet of metal but that just gets the rad completely stuck. The bolts on the bottom of the rad will touch the bottom bracket, but are about 1 cm too far forward of the bolt holes, so I cannot ,lower into them. I can't move the rad backwards because the top brackets catch ( and need to be several cm lower before the can fit under the top member) and the pulley bolt prevents movement.

    I cannot see how it can fit, but it must be possible because others seem to have done it. Are there some magic tips please?
    btw, I have a revotec electric fan and do not have the viscous fan.

    Getting frustrated, so any help please...


    #2
    4 row radiators can be a bit of a nightmare to fit as they are significantly thicker than the original.

    It is several years since I fitted mine so I can't remember accurately how I did it. This Stag also has no viscous fan fitted, but there are a random assortment of large nuts and washers fitted to the crank bolt to take up the space where the viscous coupling was removed. I have just measured the distance from the thick part of the centre boss of the front pulley to the end of the crank bolt nearest the radiator at 31mm.

    If yours is longer than this I have shortened either shortened the bolt or just fitted spacers to allow it to wind in a bit deeper to give clearance.

    When fitted there is barely enough room to fit a new belt between the rad and the bolt.

    I think I may also have had to bend the top brackets back a little to fit the rad, then bend them back into position to bolt it into place.
    Neil
    TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

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      #3
      Sometimes the bottom studs are a lot longer than needed. Could you cut them shorter, enough to be able to get the top far enough down to move away from the engine, thus allowing the studs to reach the holes? Take careful measurements before doing this !!
      I think at one time I also had to open the holes into slots.
      '72 Manual O/d Saffron Yellow

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        #4
        Just fit a shorter crank bolt. I used a Land Rover front suspension bolt about 3. Gives about 1 1/2" clearance.

        Alan

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          #5
          Are the engine mounts OK? I'm assuming the old rad came out OK. Maybe you'll have to measure both old and new.
          Sujit.

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            #6
            Are the pins/bolts at the bottom of the radiator fitting in the rad support panel a 4 row rad is wider you may need the spigot bush machined that will allow the crank pulley bolt more clearance to the rad , when we fitted a Tony Harts rad to my brothers car we had to machine the spigot bush and also take a bit of the bolt head

            Dave
            73 mk 1/2 now gone to the dark side BLUE

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              #7
              Without my viscous and with a Mk1 steering pump pulley (which is shorter than Mk2) I'm down to a 3" pulley bolt... Tons of room..
              Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

              www.terryhunt.co.uk

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                #8
                wow, if I had known I may have needed to cut or machine parts just to replace a rad, I may not have ordered a 4 row!
                I did notice last night the studs were longer than the original, so cut them down, but still no joy. The bracket for the revotec takes a few more mm which is not helping. It looks as though reducing the pulley bolt length is probably the next step - the 31mm mentioned above is 40mm in my case. Another job that I thought would be simple becoming harder...Thanks all for your help though

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by barkerwilliams View Post
                  Just fit a shorter crank bolt. I used a Land Rover front suspension bolt about 3. Gives about 1 1/2" clearance.

                  Alan
                  Alan, do you happen to have a part number or link to that bolt? I'm not even sure what thread is used. Thanks

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                    #10
                    LD Ward have a shortened bolt. I used it when I replaced the viscous fan with a Revotec fan and have plenty of room with a standard radiator.

                    https://www.ejward.co.uk/new-parts/e...shortened.html

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                      #11
                      Sounds to me as if there is something wrong. There are plenty of Stags running with the OE fan arrangement and so-called updated radiators fit no problem. In my case, I run a standard radiator c/w OE fan. Removing/replacing the radiator is an easy job (using cardboard to protect the fins from the fan blades, and I can still change a drive belt between the crank bolt and radiator if necessary.

                      Has the bottom radiator support panel been changed, or damaged, in the past?
                      Dave
                      1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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                        #12
                        when I fitted a supergil from Tony the mounting bolts needed 10mm removed and the bottom, mounting holes had to be elongated by 1/2 a hole each side to spread them. plenty of room between the pully bolt and rad.
                        could the mounting panel for the bolts have been fitted in the reverse position pushing the rad towards the engine?

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                          #13
                          Am I the only one who has a problem with the height of the radiator?

                          I've got two original radiators, one original converted to Supergill and one "cheapo" aftermarket one von Rimmers. Despite there being no evidence of any damage or replacement panels on my Stag, they are all really tight on the height, so to get the top radiator brackets to tuck under the top shut panel is really difficult, bordering on impossible.

                          I measured the two original radiators and the Supergill and there is a variation on the height of the header tanks LH & RH. The tanks themselves seem to be identical, but the way they've been welded to the top and bottom plates differs. It's only about 2 -3 mm difference, but it's enough to stop the radiator being tucked under the shut panel. The Supergill was the largest, and I had to take a sizeable hammer to "reposition" the lower valence in the mounting hole area.

                          Drew
                          If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Stags from LD 1 to almost the end of production were fitted with a four row radiator with offset rows. Amazingly the last few came with a three row one in spite of the inherent cooling problems. The standard four row one in my car has tanks that are 2 1/4" wide, and the core as about 2" deep if that helps. It used to be possible to get five row cores fitted to the existing tanks, but they were almost impossible to fit without modifying the support panel, and in fact were no more efficient as they restricted the air flow. As to why some people are having trouble with the four row ones they have recently bought I have no idea, unless a different and thicker core has been used to make, or recondition them. I believe the original design of core is still available, so perhaps it is time to report the problem to you supplier if the four core one you almost certainly took out, fitted correctly.
                            Mike.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by dasadrew View Post
                              Am I the only one who has a problem with the height of the radiator?

                              Drew
                              Nope.. Mine was really tight as well, I had the proper rubber spacers at the bottom and it was not going to fit so used some thinner ones, still a very tight squeeze to get it in. And yes, I also employed a sizeable hammer!

                              Terry
                              Last edited by trunt; 1st July 2020, 12:00.
                              Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                              www.terryhunt.co.uk

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