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    Article in the club magazine does not work

    Hi,

    Relating the the article in the club magazine on fuel light flashing at low levels and a cure using a relay (issue 449 May 2020 page 42) does not seem that it could possibly work.


    I bought the exact same relay, but noted in the feedback for the relay that other people kept saying it does not work as described.) Not put off I bought it, spent a while wiring it up then tested it.

    It soon became evident what the other people were talking about. The relay flips from one state to another and not just starts in one state and changes after a delay.

    ie.
    • If its OFF to start with, when state change it will go ON then after a delay OFF again
      OR
    • If its ON when state change it will go OFF then after a delay it will go ON again.
    This will not work for the fuel tank because for the above two conditions this is what happens
    • If the fuel light is off (what we want normally) then when the tank sensor blips the fuel light will flash (relay blips), then go off - which is what happens anyway and when really low it will be off all the time wrong
    • The fuel light will be on all the time when full (wrong) then when a blip occurs the light will go out OK, and when really low the light will come ON all the time OK.
    No matter how you wire it .. these are the only two possibilities.

    From the photos I have and the photos in the article I have the exact same board... there are no other markings below is my board
    IMG_2630.jpg

    IMG_2631.jpg

    IMG_2633.jpg

    The only thing you are asked to do is remove S5, which I did but removed or not it makes no difference. Joining the two un-jumpered pins disables the relay. You can see on the reverse side of the board how the relay is wired and why it cannot work.

    Even Henri's description is the same as mine, which is on grounding the GO terminal the green light comes on, and then after a delay goes off, which is the relay flipping from one state to another.

    If I have got the wrong board.. beware as you cannot easily tell... and how can you tell you have got the right board?

    Has anybody else performed this mod and if it works could you photo your board. I think it must be that there is an alternative board, that works differently but how you can tell this I am not sure

    Hopefully Henri can comment if he is online..I will send him a pm if possible.

    Dave

    #3
    Originally posted by StagJonno View Post
    You could try this one - just a simple delay on energise timer @£4.88 incl P&P.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-NE...444af2e2d5541a
    That is the exact same module and wired the same way it would do the same thing... However, I have sorted it out... the wiring he gives in the article is wrong... see the next post.

    Comment


      #4
      Phew! Problem is solved The magazine article wiring is completely wrong.

      Looking at it in detail, as I mentioned it would never work correctly. below is his wiring from the article.

      IMG_2640.jpg

      The mistake was to wire the earth to the output contacts. It should have put a shunt from the power supply negative terminal ( from the Green orange from the tank switch) to the output contacts and be the lower two contact not the upper two.. see the photo below :

      IMG_2636.jpg

      This way it is using the tank low signal through the output contacts to the light. In other words as originally wired, however when a slosh occurs the relay changes contacts stopping the signal for the delay. If however the slosh becomes permanent, then the relay drops back after 6 seconds and the light is lit permanently.

      This wiring is much simpler too.

      I mounted mine in a plastic bottle, along with inline fuse

      IMG_2637.jpgIMG_2638.jpg

      Annoyingly because I followed his original wiring I had cut the earth so I had to rejoin it when I need not have touched the earth in the first place.

      I can access the bottle without removing anything in the boot except the fuel pump cover (easily removed) should I need to change the fuse.


      IMG_2639.jpg

      correctly wired it now works perfectly.

      Another point was that fora Mk1 a good source of power is the boot light supply which is in the same harness and fused too. If that fuse goes when driving less of an issue.

      The remaining question is should the article in the magazine have a correction printed? or other people will go through what I just have.

      Dave
      Last edited by Bakdraft007; 28 June 2020, 16:16.

      Comment


        #5
        I bought the same unit. It came with wiring instructions completely at odds with those in the magazine. I followed the suppliers instructions.
        Dave
        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

        Comment


          #6
          Thanks for the info Dave, Not being critical but looking at your fuel hose in the boot it has no clips, think you will find they are he same as the under bonnet one's

          http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.p...d38b3ea51d5c04

          Thanks again for posting and your time

          The yellow team


          "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

          Comment


            #7
            Thanks all for the info. I read the article but after checking the devices on ebay I was unsure.
            Now I've just ordered the one indicated by StagJonno.
            Steve.
            SteveD
            White 1972 2nd Sanction TV8 BW35 Wire Wheels

            Comment


              #8
              This was the one I ordered from Amazon:

              https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

              Dave

              Comment


                #9
                Hmmm,

                Am very much confused. On my unit, when the low level switch closes, the timing starts but the relay remains off. if the low level switch opens again before the delay time ends, nothing happens.
                When the low level switch closes and stays closed long enough, past the delay time, the relay switches on and remains on, permanently lighting the low level lamp.
                Will double check but am certain this is the way it worked after I tested it.
                Unfortunately, am out of my house in Florida where the car is until early August, but will follow up as soon as I am back there

                Comment


                  #10
                  Good info here - thanks to all, as I've got the board but haven't found the time yet!

                  Forum 1 : 0 Magazine (only joking - both have their place and their clientele)
                  The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                  Comment


                    #11
                    Here is a quick drawing on whats meant to happen..

                    sorry for the quality... but it gives the message

                    IMG_2645.jpg

                    Dave

                    Comment


                      #12
                      Originally posted by hvtr View Post
                      Hmmm,

                      Am very much confused. On my unit, when the low level switch closes, the timing starts but the relay remains off. if the low level switch opens again before the delay time ends, nothing happens.
                      When the low level switch closes and stays closed long enough, past the delay time, the relay switches on and remains on, permanently lighting the low level lamp.
                      Will double check but am certain this is the way it worked after I tested it.
                      Unfortunately, am out of my house in Florida where the car is until early August, but will follow up as soon as I am back there
                      It maybe that there are two variations of the board out there.. but if so,they are indistinguishable. On mine you can hear the click of the relay immediately the low fuel scenario happens, followed 6 seconds later by a second click as it drops back...

                      If there are two variations of board out there.. then we have two wiring diagrams that can accommodate either scenario which is a bonus.

                      Dave

                      Comment


                        #13
                        Sounds plausible, two versions. Have done some further digging on Amazon US around the time delay relay subject. All Chinese, most without any doc. Some have two additional jumpers to set an on delay or interval delay, some with time display etc, etc
                        So what I am going to do, having Bakdraft007's pictures of both sides of his unit, compare them with my unit and see if I can see any differences. and post it.

                        Regardless of which wiring is to be used, the end effect is still a solution to the darn flickering!!!

                        Comment


                          #14
                          Is this somewhat more straightforward ?

                          https://www.socforum.com/forum/forum...es-for-a-fiver
                          I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

                          Comment


                            #15
                            To bakdraft007.
                            Have been comparing your pictures with mine.
                            One thing is clear, I put the jumper removed from S5 ON THE OPEN CONTACTS (empty jumper, see picture below) .
                            These can be used as a trigger via a momentary switch, but are now connected permanently
                            I did not mention this in the article, should have, my fault. This is the only difference I can see so far.
                            Just to make certain, if you were to see a minute, try to use my wiring layout with the jumper fitted and see if all now works.
                            .
                            Picture 3 board layout.jpg

                            Comment

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