Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Enough leakage?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Enough leakage?

    I need to connect a few things to test tomorrow, but does anyone know if the ignition switched, i.e green circuits, have enough leakage to supply a ground for a relay? I want a headlight reminder that chimes when:
    Key out. ( so a ground has to be supplied to the buzzer
    Drivers door open
    Ignition off
    Headlights on.

    If green/white leaks enough, I can do it with only one relay.

    I also want to find a buzzer that is a chime, not a buzz. Seems new cars do with a processor and speaker. If anyone knows of one, please give me a hint. Not much luck searching.

    #2
    a chime used in the platform industry (cherry pickers)is called a cyber tone, 12v and some have 3 terminals to give different tones, but very loud the can be muffled by wrapping in cloth. not sure what you mean by leakage?

    Comment


      #3
      I've not tried it but I don't think there would be enough leakage, even if there were this would be bad design practice. Assuming you have this problem due to MK1 door switch arrangement then I think you'll need the additional relay to 'invert' the door switch signal.

      I use the Durite lights-on warning buzzer Part No 0-562-00 (which despite its name is a two-tone warbling beeper not a buzzer) and an additional relay (see circuit below for my RHD MK1).

      https://www.durite.co.uk/itm/Other-V...zer-12V/056200

      Annotation 2020-05-29 083130.jpg

      Comment


        #4
        Me? I have nothing against modifications, I fiddle about, do a little research and get it working and move quickly and quietly onto the next job.

        However there is a certain charm to driving an older car and that is all little idiosyncrasies that go along with it. Takes my mind away from the 21st century worries and casts me back to the care free days of the 1970s with rolling powercuts and 3 day weeks. Oh and flat batteries because you left the head lights on. I have one of these

        https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-HEADL...V/123718601554

        With the level of stuff you are doing would something like this not be easier? #joke

        2020-ford-mustang-ecoboost-convertible-hpp-101-1568989913.jpg



        Anyway re the most irritating noise to mankind, Bong Bong Bong was this not fitted to a world of 1970s and 80s American motors - almost certainly without ECU, CPU or BECM? Could the device not simply be lifted from a scrapper?

        Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

        Comment


          #5
          Actually the door signal is fine as the power to the buzzer. It is how to detect the ignition is off without adding a second relay.
          As far as design, you might look at the schematic and see how the relay that blocks the AC works. It uses bleed through the starter solenoid to provide ground. When cranking, the voltage blocks the relay.

          With two relays I can do the logic. I am trying to figure how to do it with one or with diodes and the existing buzzer. I had a thought. If I use a 5 pin relay for the windows, reverse the direction and ground the relaxed output, grounding the windows with the ignition off is irrelevant, but that gives me a ground for the relay to bridge the key in switch. Bench time to see if the Bosch relays reliable pick with 5 volts. If so, then relay 109 leakage may work. Guess no one has gone down this route. FWIW, 9 relays or modules fit across the relay plate. 10 gets ugly.

          Key out of ignition
          Ignition off
          Lights on
          Door open. 4 conditions. Not 3.

          "Charm" of an old car does not include a dead battery in my book. Dim lights, slow wipers and burned up old connectors are not charming.

          Might get the durite module and use it instead of the Lucas as the OEM one is pretty irritable. I am really looking for a friendlier "bing bing" as is more common now.

          Sure my GTI is in all respects a far superior touring car. Even my Sonoma truck is a better car. But they do not feel like a LBC, and sure are not as pretty. Mustang? Bloated overpriced tank for someone who feels inadequate. The last really nice touring cars were the 88 Prelude si. It was almost perfect but parts are unobtainable. I looked at a couple of Jensen's, but too big and heavy. XJ-s too big and I don't wear gold chains. I do not like new cars. Any of them. No personality. Good cars, just cars.

          Rebuilt the Stag chassis stock. ( Good Parts axles) Restoring electrical integrity to original. Can't repair the HVAC as is as the parts are no longer available, so adapting new parts that are. Putting In a fan controller as it will likely be key in solving the inherent overheating issues rather than some of the dubious physics mods some have suggested. I may put in a programmable ignition as it is key to driveability and performance. This is mostly to reverse the non-computer emission controls a 73 was burdened with. I am not building it into something it's not.

          Comment


            #6
            My simple mind is happy with lights on door open warning much easier to fit maybe ignition off a step too far imho

            Comment


              #7
              Tested two Bosch relays. The 20 A picked at 4.5, so I was thinking enough margin. But the 30A, my usual part, picked at 6.5. Border line if I use the 20A for the key-switch bypass and 30 for the window circuit. I'll test the relays I have on order, but the 5 pin ground on the window relay may be the most reliable. I'll draw it up and post so all can see what I am talking about.

              I want all four "logic" inputs as I find it annoying when it buzzes when I don't want it to. Some of my cards have. It is the key-in switch that is the main cluperat, but it is no fun if you lock your keys in the car which is why they included that. Modifying the seat belt system to only have the dash light, not the buzzer.

              Comment


                #8
                Here is the one new relay, change window to a 5-pin. ( use NC pole for the window circuit ) Had to really crop so hope it is clear.
                Lights buzzer .jpg

                Comment


                  #9
                  This is how I did it on a MkII with a Ne555 timer module. Same as for fuel warning light flashing prevention. Stag Lights on reminder.jpgDrawAE3E_001.jpg

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I do need to grab something like that for the fuel light. I was just going to test if an RC would suffice. Again. I would like to find a nice chime instead of a buzzer. I see many listed for various cars, but no idea what any of them sound like.
                    Tested my new batch of 40A relays. Reliably pick @ 6.2 and drop at 3. So no way I could cascade them. ( need at least 20% margin) So I am making my wire list to build the above circuit, my new HVAC circuit etc. By moving the three relays I need for the HVAC into the console, I reduce the total number of connectors by about 20. Every connector I remove is one more that can't cause a failure. I found three burned pins in the three 9-pin connectors that led to the relay plate and several on the relay sockets.
                    Just noticed, as I am not "and" the seat belts and door switches I don't need the other diode either so I can remove and solder that. Two more connectors gone.

                    So relay 109 provides the ground when ignition is off. Lights provide the power for the relay coil. Door switch the power for the buzzer and the relay contacts bridge the ignition key switch. All four conditions met.

                    Just started looking at the column. Not happy with some of that either. I may move the light switch to the dash as I have room by moving the gauges to the center. I can see several burned pins in the connector.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X