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    Bummed with alternator

    Got my Remey Fiesta alternator. 55W, direct fit. But unlike the pictures on the WEB, the stud is not the output and there is no ring for the field as the recommended harness ( two ring lugs) suggests. Nope, it uses only the same plug as the Lucas. Great if you consider pulling 55 Amps through a low pressure connector. I consider that a totally unacceptable design.
    TO my surprise, it is actually a couple mm larger than the CS130.

    5 other packages, so I can get some progress done. Just not that one.

    #2
    A 9.5mm lucar connector is rated at 50 amps when used with 10mm2 cable, as the current is shared, each tag is carrying 27.5amps max, well within spec IMHO.

    https://www.te.com/commerce/Document...3.pdf%7F180907

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      #3
      A perfect clean connector on a good day brand new. Terrible design. I want a high pressure terminal. For everything if I can. In the FA lab, we used to say there was no such thing as a good connector. I spent 10 years looking at failed parts, so I have an attitude about these things. I don't tolerate such bad design in my cars.

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        #4
        there is no such thing as a well designed car, they all work on the colin Chapman principle, design a car, then remove as much as possible until it breaks, the just put the last piece back. engineered obsolescence is a big thing nowadays, why do you think so many things fail a month out of the warranty period.
        the perfect car is I am afraid a pipe dream, that's why we own Stags,, to play, sort and dream of the perfect project

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          #5
          Don’t worry. If all goes wrong, buy some of this: http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm
          Dave
          1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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            #6
            Originally posted by DJT View Post
            Don’t worry. If all goes wrong, buy some of this: http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm

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              #7
              I needed a can of that last year when my light switch twisted slightly in the nacelle and the live brown earthed against the steering column mount

              Now that IS a bad design. make sure your nuts are secured properly lads
              Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

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                #8
                You see, we have the advantage of hindsight and most are willing to spend a couple of bucks to fix bad designs as almost any small part is cheaper than a tow. My lab experience just gives me insight to what design decisions are not reliable. So, why should I put back a bad design? A foot away, harness exposed inches from the exhaust. Current to the car through a crimp and 4 more fast-ons. Now a stud and crimped/soldered ring lugs and a bit of reflective split loom to protect it. ( also gives me the easy point for the power to the new fan controller) I was getting less than 8 volts to the heater fans due to the multiple 47 year old corroded connectors.

                Thanks for the light switch tip. I have not opened the the steering clamshell yet but I will. I know several of the pins in the multi-pin connectors feeding it are bad. I am working my way from battery forward and have not got past the relay block/fuse block yet.

                Here is one place we can give Triumph koodos. All those fast-ons that go to the fuse block were welded. So that greatly reduces the number of points where corrosion can set in. I am hoping the chemical solution to clean all the connectors works and they have enough spring left to be reasonably reliable. If not, I'll have to replace them. I wanted a fuse block with screw terminals but did not find one with back access. I could also drill all the tabs and use bolts for ring lugs. More to think about.

                I have never needed any Lucas magic smoke in a jar. This is my 7th LBC so not a pro, but not a rookie. I just fix them first. I don't even need to dance holding a harness above my head yelling "Out damned prince of darkness"

                Chapman seems to have forgotten to put the last piece back in. Too fragile to get that last bit of speed. I believe that is why Stewart could finish a race in a Lotus and Andretti broke them. I do think the rear A-arm on the 7 was brilliant as long as low power. I hold a grudge against him as he seems to have been a small man with tiny feet and built cars to fit himself. I dreamed of a 7 from a little kid, but when I went to buy one, physically could not fit. +2S, Europa. Nope.

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                  #9
                  Turns out the CS-130 fits fine. It is actually about 2mm smaller than the Bosch or Lucas. Anyway, I noticed the Lucas was actually rubbing on the lower rad hose just a tad. I don't find much extra length in the top host to allow me to tilt it a little, can't push it out and clear the fan. Any ideas why too close? Wrong upper and lower hose sections ( center being a pipe) Any SOP for this?

                  On install, replaced the 5 brown wire crimp-spade mess with a power stud. All crimped and soldered. THis wil llet you buy a generic 14 inch tractor battery or inverter cable to connect the Delco to the car.Easy, clean and far more reliable.

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                    #10
                    Well, I got a CS-130 in there. I had to file the case slightly to get enough "swing" and fit a shield off an older version as the newer plastic shield hits the frame. Needs a longer belt, so I put several on order. Guessing a 15295. I will need to re-route the lower rad hose. It did not really clear the Lucas. I can do better by bringing it across higher and further. I think, now I got it, one could do this from the top by just moving the PS pump and the ground strap. I did as the book and dropped the sway bar and trans cooler.

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                      #11
                      295 belt is just right. Easier to get over the fan that's for sure. Need to mod the adjustment bracket just a hair.

                      Here is a picture of th ebigger shield, how I filed the case and an alternator with the old dust shield. 20200604_105541.jpg20200604_105818.jpg20200604_105750.jpg

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                        #12
                        Last detail. Had to make a 1 inch extension for the lower adjustment arm. Then things fit nicer than stock. Well after I figured out the PO ( professional mechanic mind you) had the two elbows for the lower hose swapped and get this: no spacers behind the PS pump. I had it all bolted up and looked at it, WOW. Amazing in the few miles I have driven it it did not shred and throw the belt. Roughly 3/8 inch looks about right.

                        Last car I bought ( My MGB) was a father and son project and they screwed everything up. So this time I bought a car that had been maintained by professionals. Not sure which was worse. About tied in my book.

                        Anyway, got the sway bar back up there, fixed all the fins on the trans cooler, and buttoned the front back up. As soon as the paint is dry, I can install the lower fan guard which was missing from my car.

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                          #13
                          It made my eyes water when I read the title of this thread

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by garyf View Post
                            It made my eyes water when I read the title of this thread
                            Especially if your a take charge kind of guy
                            Chris TV8 O/D Carmine, Scirocco TDI 180 R Line

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                              #15
                              And here is how it is all tied together getting rid of 4 more Lucar connectors. Easy when I add the fan controller.
                              20200607_154116.jpg

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