Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Helicoil removal tool

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • HQentity
    replied
    The problem I made for myself was not screwing the thread-making tool in deep enough, as soon as I did that, it all worked fine. It was definitely my mistake!

    Leave a comment:


  • jbuckl
    replied
    If the tapped hole has a taper at the bottom (they mostly will have) the longer series helicoils will follow the taper & cause the bolt to bind.
    As other posters mentioned, use a 1.5d helicoils or even a 1.25d even a 1d will work.
    If you are stuck with using a longer helicoil which causes bolt binding at the bottom because of it following the thread taper, it’s possible to cut the helicoil shorter with a small grinding disc.

    Leave a comment:


  • marshman
    replied
    Originally posted by DJT View Post

    News to me. I’ve used them several times without problem, including for the inlet manifold.
    Just looked at them online and have to agree, look the same as any other helicoil

    Kyle, are you sure you didn't screw them in too deep?

    Leave a comment:


  • DJT
    replied
    Originally posted by marshman View Post
    Glad to hear you have fixed it!

    Good to know about the "Recoil" brand being tapered. I shall avoid those!!

    Roger
    News to me. I’ve used them several times without problem, including for the inlet manifold.

    Leave a comment:


  • marshman
    replied
    Glad to hear you have fixed it!

    Good to know about the "Recoil" brand being tapered. I shall avoid those!!

    Roger

    Leave a comment:


  • HQentity
    replied
    Sorry, that was indeed a typo - I was on about the inlet manifold bolts, 5/16 I believe? The reason I was going to use the M8 tool is because it was useable for everything M5-M8.

    Despite all this, I managed to remove all of my previous helicoils today and replace them. It’s worth noting “Recoil” brand of helicoil has a tapered end and, if you don’t go deep enough with the tool, the taper prevents the bolts from torquing up.

    now that I’ve fixed the helicoils, I’ve got the inlet manifold back on, and this evening was the first drive in the stag since March! Head gasket replaced (after much tears and sunburn!).

    Leave a comment:


  • marshman
    replied
    Originally posted by KOY 23 View Post
    I'm confused as you initially mention 5/16" which i assumed were manifold bolts, Now you mention 5/8" Is this a typo?
    I agree John, I made the same assumption - especially as M8 was also mentioned. Hence why I mentioned bolts supplied too long as I know some kits of stainless bolts for the inlet manifold contain at least one bolt that is 1/4" too long.

    Kyle, If we are talking manifold bolts I would caution about going too deep with the helicoil tapping drill in case you break through into the water ways. I really can't see the depth/length of the helicoil being an issue. Have you measured the depth of the hole vs length of the bolt. Or you could look down the hole and at the end of the bolt to see what is preventing it going all the way in.

    Leave a comment:


  • KOY 23
    replied
    I'm confused as you initially mention 5/16" which i assumed were manifold bolts, Now you mention 5/8" Is this a typo?

    Leave a comment:


  • HQentity
    replied
    Thanks for all of the ideas everyone, I’ve double checked a few of these things:

    tangs have been broken off from the bottom and removed,

    bolts are 5/8” UNC with 1” threads that match the old ones,

    the thread of the thread-making tool matches the bolts.

    up until yesterday I believed the only way to solve this problem was to remove the heads and have them machined out, so I have checked and triple checked these facts - the only thing I can see it being is that I didn’t go deep enough with the thread maker thing, and that the threads are tapering in and preventing the bolts from going in deeper?

    At one stage I was considering thick washers - the bolts are going about 5-10 full turns into the head.

    Leave a comment:


  • marshman
    replied
    Kyle,

    two things before you go trying to remove the Helicoil.

    1. Are you using new bolts or the original bolts and if they are new bolts have you checked they are the correct length. Some (if not all) suppliers of "new" bolts do not supply the correct length and others jave been supplied with bolts that are too long and bottom out in the original hole. The solution is either use the original bolt, shorten the new bolt to the correct length (best solution) or as a temporary bodeg pack a few more washers under the head of the bolt.

    2. As Drew says - you did you make sure you a) broke of the "tang" at the bottom of the helicoil and b) did you make sure that no swarf or the tang fell into the bottom of the hole i.e. is the clear all the way to the bottom.

    There is no way an "incorrect" length of Helicoil will / can stop a bolt going all the way in.

    If the Helicoil is incorrectly inserted then as others have said just pick up the end (lever it inwards with a sharp small screwdriver or similar) and the grab it with a pair of snipe (pointy) nose pliers and pull whilst rotating anti-clockwise. It will come out very easily without damaging anything.

    When I did my heads I used 1.5D helicoils - 1.5D means the length of the helicoil is 1.5 x the thread diameter. So 5/16" helicoil is roughly 5/8" long (when inserted, they are shorter when not inserted as the stretch slightly when being wound in).


    Roger

    Leave a comment:


  • JOHNS
    replied
    Originally posted by alan_thomas View Post
    I have one of these

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Faithfull...sAAOSwvktagxuF

    I managed to get a broken insert out years ago. Sharp tap to slightly push corners of scraper into steel of insert then whilst pushing down unscrew. If you are lucky and luck does come into removing helicoils it unscrews.
    When i was an apprentice more than 50 yrs ago I had a job to helicoil about 50 small holes in a large casting. it had had probably 15 hours of machining done already and yes I broken an insert. Foreman used the triangular scraper trick but only after telling me the cost of the casting would come out of my wages if it didn't work!

    - Alan
    That brings back memories. When I was an apprentice we used to have to bottom tap these massive castings from the machine shop. A horrible, boring job. Every other fitter in the shop would listen for the sound of a centre punch being hit by a hammer. This meant you were attempting to remove a broken tap. They would immediately surround you and clap their hands until the foreman appeared to give you hell.

    Leave a comment:


  • dasadrew
    replied
    Originally posted by HQentity View Post
    The bolts won’t go far down enough, I don’t think I drilled/put the threads far enough in to the heads. I’ve torqued them up as high as 35Nm but they just won’t go in. So I’m going to take them out and try again if I can!
    Might be a bit of an impudent question (Grandmothers sucking eggs etc.) but the tang at the end of the helicoil is broken off, non? Can't see why putting in a helicoil would shorten the hole if you're using the original bolt lengths (exhaust? Inlet manifold?).

    Drew

    Leave a comment:


  • KOY 23
    replied
    I bet a garage would shorten the bolts.

    Leave a comment:


  • HQentity
    replied
    The bolts won’t go far down enough, I don’t think I drilled/put the threads far enough in to the heads. I’ve torqued them up as high as 35Nm but they just won’t go in. So I’m going to take them out and try again if I can!

    Leave a comment:


  • new to this
    replied
    Originally posted by HQentity View Post
    OK! Thank you very much, I expected I would further damage the head. I'll try tomorrow!
    Why are you tiring to remove the helicoil ? have you cross threaded it or fitted the wrong one ,they should be 5/16 unc and 3/8 unc

    Dave

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X