Originally posted by dave1959
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Voltage Stabilizer
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Originally posted by MandM View PostI'm going to check the earth first as my gauges go down not up, I stopped on the way home from the garden centre as my temp gauge went to zero and the fuel gauge went to 3/4 just after filling the tank with my 99p petrol.
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Originally posted by KOY 23 View Post£6 for soldering 3 short lengths of wire and a bit of heatshrink, not a bad little number.
For a fix that is not exactly plug and play I suspect that it is aimed at those that could probably assemble the parts themselves.
Some folk just love spending money I guessStags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
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It is clear that a great number of folks here no experience with the actual costs of manufacturing low quantity runs. Just soldering some wire? How about the time to buy the wire? How about the time needed to accept orders, package and ship? How about business insurance and taxes? Sure, if you are going to build a couple million, they could be a buck-50. Going to build a couple dozen? Whole different equation.
Not everyone is an electronic tech as I was. No repair shop is going to spend an hour getting everything together and building one. How happy would you be if you paid $2 for parts, an hour @ $90 and another hour to put it in? $200 for a stabilizer. If one could make money making a few dozen. I would have flooded the market 5 years before they were available as that is when I started building for friends. I figured more like $35 each and no one would pay that. ( 1980 dollars)
I am happy to be able to buy parts at all for an unpopular 50 year old car they built very few of. 6 choices in carpet kits! We can buy improved parts, not just breaker yard or crap made who knows where replacements.
BTW, the old 7810's and 7910s worked OK, but the newer chips have a lower dropout voltage.
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Originally posted by tvrgeek View PostIt is clear that a great number of folks here no experience with the actual costs of manufacturing low quantity runs. Just soldering some wire? How about the time to buy the wire? How about the time needed to accept orders, package and ship? How about business insurance and taxes? Sure, if you are going to build a couple million, they could be a buck-50. Going to build a couple dozen? Whole different equation.
Not everyone is an electronic tech as I was. No repair shop is going to spend an hour getting everything together and building one. How happy would you be if you paid $2 for parts, an hour @ $90 and another hour to put it in? $200 for a stabilizer. If one could make money making a few dozen. I would have flooded the market 5 years before they were available as that is when I started building for friends. I figured more like $35 each and no one would pay that. ( 1980 dollars)
I am happy to be able to buy parts at all for an unpopular 50 year old car they built very few of. 6 choices in carpet kits! We can buy improved parts, not just breaker yard or crap made who knows where replacements.
BTW, the old 7810's and 7910s worked OK, but the newer chips have a lower dropout voltage.
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Originally posted by KOY 23 View Post
Exactly, total cost of mine was 80p, the cost of the regulator.
Seriously though just eBay fees (75p), Paypal fees (45p), and postage (88p) would only leave £5.42p that's before the actual cost of the regulator, heatshrink and wire, let alone consumables, cost of jiffy bag etc.
Yes there are those of us who know what we are doing (or at least think we do) and can do things cheaper, but then again there are others who need a bit more help and guidance or just have better things to do with their time.White TV8 BW35 no mods and now a Dolly Sprint to keep it company
So many cars, so little time!
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Originally posted by tvrgeek View PostIt is clear that a great number of folks here no experience with the actual costs of manufacturing low quantity runs. Just soldering some wire? How about the time to buy the wire? How about the time needed to accept orders, package and ship? How about business insurance and taxes? Sure, if you are going to build a couple million, they could be a buck-50. Going to build a couple dozen? Whole different equation.
Not everyone is an electronic tech as I was. No repair shop is going to spend an hour getting everything together and building one. How happy would you be if you paid $2 for parts, an hour @ $90 and another hour to put it in? $200 for a stabilizer. If one could make money making a few dozen. I would have flooded the market 5 years before they were available as that is when I started building for friends. I figured more like $35 each and no one would pay that. ( 1980 dollars)
I am happy to be able to buy parts at all for an unpopular 50 year old car they built very few of. 6 choices in carpet kits! We can buy improved parts, not just breaker yard or crap made who knows where replacements.
BTW, the old 7810's and 7910s worked OK, but the newer chips have a lower dropout voltage.Last edited by KOY 23; 23 May 2020, 15:25.
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Chaps, any chance that you can behave yourselves please and this time I am NOT directing the comments at Koy23. For some utterly bizarre reason it is kicking off about a cheap orrible product on ebay and a number of the usual candidates defending it to the death.
I honestly couldn't care less if you bought it or indeed buy it. The time it takes to assemble and the sum of it's parts does not necessarily equal the value. Anyone who has restored a car should be testament to that. John Koy23 pointed this out and I agreed with him.
Fill your boots chaps and buy what you like, I'll stick with the "if it aint broke dont fix it" theory and be looking for the same design as original but solid state. Save me time having to chop wires about and drill holes so I can pop-rivet it in and it costs less that £14.
Are we seriously are going back to the old days of some people not being allowed to have an opinion?
Enjoy your lockdown Saturday
Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
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Originally posted by marshman View Post
Blimey, you paid over the odds there, hope it included postage cost!. I can get the regulators for less than 23p each! (less if I buy "fakes" in bulk from China), means I would "make" over £7 per sale "This time next year Rodney we will be Miwionairs!!!"
Seriously though just eBay fees (75p), Paypal fees (45p), and postage (88p) would only leave £5.42p that's before the actual cost of the regulator, heatshrink and wire, let alone consumables, cost of jiffy bag etc.
Yes there are those of us who know what we are doing (or at least think we do) and can do things cheaper, but then again there are others who need a bit more help and guidance or just have better things to do with their time.
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Originally posted by richardthestag View Post
Are we seriously are going back to the old days of some people not being allowed to have an opinion?
Last edited by wilf; 23 May 2020, 22:33.Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.
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For what it's worth, I was working on a fellow SOC members car that had intermittent fuel gauge readings. He had replaced the old bi-metalic regulator twice with new electronic ones, only to have them fail. Re-fitting the original regulator seemed to give a reading again. I found root cause, the fuel gauge connector post was slightly loose and intermittently shorting to earth (like when the dash was being moved to work on the fault!). In the meantime I bought a few LM regulators of the bay, to replace the internals of his failed units. I noticed his original units had a very small darlington pair regulators fitted, I suggest these units failed due to being intermittently shorted to earth. The more substantial LM regulator appears to have survived being shorted down to earth, and continues to work fine with the modified insulators fitted to the fuel gauge posts. The photos show the difference in size between the small and large regulator, some suppliers websites show the internals fitted to their voltage regulators. Attached photos show the post shorting, the insulator I made fitted, and the difference in size between darlington/LM regulators.
Stay safe,
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