Originally posted by DJT
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Head gasket replacement
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Looks like your need to remove the timing cover to get to the tensioner,but deal with one problem at a time,with the chain off the head you can try to remove the head,as you dont know the history of the engine may be a good idea to replace the timing chains,but get the heads off first
Dave73 mk 1/2 now gone to the dark side BLUE
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Thanks for the help all.
Just for reference, the sprocket was already on the bracket when it came away from the camshaft, but despite this, the chain seems to have tensioned up too much. I spent the best part of 2 hours trying to undo the main nut holding the pulley wheels on behind the fan, but even standing on it and jumping up and down didn't help! So I moved on to the inlet manifold and will work towards the head gasket, and ask a garage to set up the timing instead I expect. I think it is all out of time anyway now, I just hope there hasn't been any contact inside the cylinders. What a nightmare!
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Kyle you said the sprocket was already on the bracket.
Last year when we did my heads and got to the 'slide the sprocket onto the camshaft' we hit the problem you encountered. No way could we get the RH sprocket onto the camshaft. Two hours later, and being sure we had followed instructions we decided to try the LHS to see if we had the same problem. It just slipped on in a few seconds.
Back to RHS to have another look and it just went on. You may have the same luck as we had, so as some folk have said, don't strip back to the chains just yet.
BrianBrian
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The crank timing can be reset when the heads are off....which may be some hours away!
remove the cams as previously mentioned.
on Facebook there is a R.O.M. Under files in the triumph stag fans group.
the crank pulley bolt is easily undone using a 24mm or 15/16” combination spanner ‘chocked’ & a flick of the starter.
Be careful doing it that way though.
No need for a puller to remove the pulley, they usually just break the pulley flanges.
just lever the pulley and tap the slacked bolt head & the pulley will ‘walk’ off the crank nose.
There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
2.
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Ideally you need a dial gauge with a magnetic base which are available quite cheaply on ebay.
Otherwise a steel ruler across the top of piston no 2 and try and find the point where it reaches the highest point in the bore. Looks like you have +40 pistons which tend to have quite a low height in relation to the top of the block, so they may reach TDC either above or below the top of the block.
When measuring align the ruler with the gudgeon pins as the piston rocks as it goes over TDC, and use feeler gauges to find the highest point of the stroke
NeilNeil
TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 256bhp 240lbft torque
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As TDC is at the "top of the curve" and moving extremely little for a degree of crankshaft movement it's sometimes easier to measure the piston at, say, 20mm down the cylinder on the way up and down and mark the two points, then take the middle point. Without a DTI it's easier to get the accuracy,The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137
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