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    Geabox selector rails.

    Hi,
    I'm in the process of changing the gaskets between the adaptor and gearbox and adaptor and overdrive (a significant amount of oil keeps leaking out around the bolts).
    There is also always a small drip of oil on one of the selector rails. Is replacing the O rings on the selector rail a job an amateur would be capable of doing or is it best left alone? (I feel sure that I read an old article that suggested to leave overhauling the selector rails to a professional, but I can't find it again). Or can you get away without removing the complete selector rail system to replace the rubber seals?
    Thanks
    Mark.

    #2
    You have to remove the selector forks and deal with the detent springs.. Not rocket science.

    Shown here in Buckeye triumph.. everyone should bookmark this site!

    https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox

    Terry
    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

    www.terryhunt.co.uk

    Comment


      #3
      I have done a few of these over the years, the biggest job is getting the pins out of the selector forks without snapping them off, this has only happened once and fortunately I had a spare cover from a scrapped gearbox.
      Unfortunately sometimes they still leak so I generally don't bother unless there is a lot of leakage, but then I park on gravel at home so most of the time I don't know!
      Neil
      TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks very much all. I’ll ponder this one.
        Another daft question if I may. From reading, I can see that you have to remove the drive flange if you want to separate the extension on a non overdrive gearbox. Do you still need to remove the drive flange if pulling the J type overdrive and short adapter off the gearbox?
        Thanks,
        Mark

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Markvh View Post
          Thanks very much all. I’ll ponder this one.
          Another daft question if I may. From reading, I can see that you have to remove the drive flange if you want to separate the extension on a non overdrive gearbox. Do you still need to remove the drive flange if pulling the J type overdrive and short adapter off the gearbox?
          Thanks,
          Mark
          No, on non OD I guess it needs to slide over the output shaft but on OD the whole OD unit comes away including the Drive flange.

          Terry
          Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

          www.terryhunt.co.uk

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks,
            I thought that was the case. Then reading the ROM and Haynes manuals again I started having doubts.
            Mark

            Comment


              #7
              Some time ago a member did this job using o-rings supplied by a well known specialist. The rails leaked much worse afterwards. we managed to source viton quad seals which worked well. I only wish I had written the sizes down. Can anyone help with the sizes please?
              There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
              2.

              Comment


                #8
                Hi,
                Does anybody know the size of O ring required for the selector shaft seals please. I'm thinking of trying to source the Viton Quad (X) rings if I can.
                Do I have to measure the diameter of the selector shaft, the diameter and depth of the recess for the O ring.
                I understand that there is about 1/32" gap betweeen the face of the plate cover (106051) and the top cover when tightened up and that the O rings mustn't be too tight a fit as this can make the selector shafts stiff.
                I do have some new O rings from a Stag supplier, should I measure these for the size I require?
                I'm worried that the leak might be worse then it is now if I put inferior seals in.
                Thanks a lot.

                Comment


                  #9
                  O ring size is internal diameter & cord diameter. std compression target is 15% Please could you post the rail groove diameter & width? Thanks
                  eriks seals have a good online calculator.
                  There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
                  2.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks,
                    I'll measure up when I have it in bits.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I got my "O" Rings (3 x 106050) from Rimmers and had - and have - no problems.

                      Nevertheless that was in 2013 and in a different area I noticed that "Nearest Metric Equivalent" seals seem to be gradually creeping in to our environment.

                      https://www.socforum.com/forum/forum...alent-syndrome
                      The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                      Comment


                        #12
                        http://www.ldpart.co.uk/shop/shop.ph...281ec2b1902aaf

                        I trust Peter to sell the correct items, although I have never needed to buy these o-rings.
                        Dave
                        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hi,
                          I'm struggling to get the selector shaft plugs (part number 156665). They are the pressed in type. I have tried to tap a 3/16" UNF thread into the caps then fit a spacer tube over and tighten a nut down to try and pull the plugs out but I can't get enough decent thread on in the depth of the cap partly because of the starter thread on the tap (or lack of). The caps are not flush with the casing.
                          The only things I can think of to do now is to drill a small hole in the cap and screw in a tapered screw extractor to pull the caps out or drill the whole cap out.
                          If I drill the caps out does the job need to be done with a pillar drill or would a hand drill be OK?
                          Or are there better ways of doing this?
                          Thanks very much.
                          Mark

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Is there a special tool required to remove the square headed set screws that hold the selector forks to the shafts? I can't budge them! I can only get an open ended on to them. I've levered on the spanner as much as I dare. Any harder and it's either going to round the square heads off or snap the spanner (one of the square heads on the central shaft looks a bit burred anyway). From what I can see, it looks like red thread lock has been used previously on these screws.
                            Any ideas would be appreciated.
                            BTW I got the selector shaft plugs out by drilling a hole in them and screwing in a pan head self tapper then levering it under the head with a screwdriver against a nut. This is after making sure I can get replacement plugs.
                            Thanks
                            Mark.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Never had them out so can't say if there is anything special about them BUT if thread lock has been used then apply a bit of heat, this usually "softens" thread lock making it easier to undo - you do need to get them "hot" as opposed to "just warm". If you have one use a heat gun rather than a blow lamp.

                              Roger
                              White TV8 BW35 no mods and now a Dolly Sprint to keep it company
                              So many cars, so little time!

                              Comment

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