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BW 65 Sump Pan cork Gasket

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    BW 65 Sump Pan cork Gasket

    Good Morning
    Does anybody know of a supplier who can provide a thicker cork sump pan gasket than the original for a BW 65 auto gearbox
    on a 1977 mk.2 stag

    #2
    Frank, why do you need a thicker gasket, or am I being thick? Have you thought of using two together? Regards, John.

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      #3
      Thanks John
      My garage replaced the old cork gasket with a thicker rubber one which still leaks.
      not thought of using two together,will have a chat with my garage friend
      Regards
      Frank.

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        #4
        Hello Frank, or a rubber gasket and some sort of silicone gasket goo? Someone will recommend something. Regards, John.

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          #5
          Worth checking that the bolts have not been overtightened and distorted the flange of the sump. When the sump is off use a a straight edge to check. Easy to "fettle" it all back flat again. Absolutely no reason to use a thicker gasket, all it will do is allow for more distortion of the flange. Overtightening will pull the area around the bolt holes in and the space between the bolts will effectively bow out leaving a gap through with the fluid can leak, easy to do - tighter is not better in this case.. Also worth checking there are no dings/burrs/deep scratches on the mating surface on the main box itself.

          Roger
          White TV8 BW35 no mods and now a Dolly Sprint to keep it company
          So many cars, so little time!

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            #6
            Originally posted by marshman View Post
            Worth checking that the bolts have not been overtightened and distorted the flange of the sump. When the sump is off use a a straight edge to check. Easy to "fettle" it all back flat again. Absolutely no reason to use a thicker gasket, all it will do is allow for more distortion of the flange. Overtightening will pull the area around the bolt holes in and the space between the bolts will effectively bow out leaving a gap through with the fluid can leak, easy to do - tighter is not better in this case.. Also worth checking there are no dings/burrs/deep scratches on the mating surface on the main box itself.
            Roger


            Once (and if) I fix my top end oil leak, I will then move on to addressing the small oil leak coming from my own sump/timing chain cover area.
            Need to get the car up on a ramp to inspect exactly where the leak is coming from, and find it interesting that you say it could be due to a "distorted" flange.

            I know that one of my sump "bolts" is missing it's nut and is just hanging loose, being prevented from falling out completely by resting on a cross member, and this could be partly responsible for the leak. Shall bear in mind what you say when I get round to tackling the problem, as although the leak is not serious, I would still like to fix it as where I normally park in our Car Communal Park is full of oil stains at present and is getting embarrasing.

            Have found quite a few other problems whilst trying to fix my oil leaks which is why it is taking so long (as you will have noted if following my "Stag Carburretor Choices Thread"); just yesterday in putting the Distributor back the "Laser Disk" inside broke and the wiring to it looks a little dodgy, so am going to replace both as I have a spare Newtronic ignition system which a Member on here once sent me when he changed to another system, and for which I am extremely gratefull (sorry I can't remember who it was) as I knew it would come in handy sometime, and that time is now.

            Best of luck Frank in fixing your own problem.








            Terry (home - Los Cristianos) ~ (YouTube site - "Tenerife Terry" to see uploaded videos)

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              #7
              Thank you all for your response.I am determined to resolve the problem.

              Thanks once again

              Frank

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                #8
                from memory the auto box sump screws are only torqued to about 6ftlb so the sump is easily distorted, steer clear of sealants as they clog auto boxes. use washers as big as possible to spread the load after checking the sump with a steel rule as previously mentioned

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                  #9
                  Are you 100% sure it is the pan gasket leaking? The sump being the lowest point is where the oil drips from & many are fooled into thinking it is a pan gasket issue. Always look & feel above the sump & make sure it is all dry up there. Common leaks are from the selector shaft where it pass through the servo cover on the offside (in UK) of the gearbox & breather O ring.

                  We tend to dress the sump down with a ball pein hammer where the bolt holes are, if the sump dishes outwards slightly that's no bad thing as the gasket will tighten between the bolts nicely. DON'T over tighten it.

                  Never known, in 40 years of transmission rebuilding, thicker pans gaskets to be needed on anything!

                  Auto transmission rebuilding since 1979 - for my sins!

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