DownUnder once removed..

[Davo1805NZ]

I think you can pretty much strip all that stuff off. The workshop manuals should show the various versions. Taylor Automotive in Newmarket know their stuff now Morris Turner has moved on.

Hi PJB - would you have any knowledge or experience of firms that would be worth contacting regarding my panel & paint work? I have been talking to a couple out of town (Hamilton & Katikati); the one Auckland firm I contacted didn't respond. Thanks.

[PJB]

Hi - CPR in Silverdale, Matt Brooks. cheers Julian

[Davo1805NZ]

Hi Dave

Welcome back to Stag ownership! I hope you enjoy your new acquisition and get it back to its original glory.

I have no idea about the re-routing of your cooling system. Someone will be along with an answer I am sure.

My car is a 1976 and was an Australian spec car destined to be exported to Oz, but it never left the UK so I had all the smog equipment on it when I got it. I can tell you that local experts in Faversham (Faversham Classics) simply removed the entire system, allowing the engine to run much better. No issues with running whatsoever.

Hope this helps!

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Do you know what Faversham did about the additional stub on top of the fuel tank, adjacent to the breather pipe, which connects to the expansion tank and then on to the adsorption canister up front? Withe the ELC piping removed this will be left open - guess it could just be blocked off somehow? Cheers - Dave

Gas tank.JPG

[JeffW]

Hi Dave

I am not sure! Will take a photo tomorrow and show you.

Jeff

[Davo1805NZ]

Thanks Jeff - that would be much appreciated.

Dave

[JeffW]

Hi Dave

You guess correctly - just blanked off with a bit of tube and a bolt. See attached photo.

Let me know if you have any other queries!

Jeff

[Davo1805NZ]

A sophisticated approach to the matter... . Looks like nothing to get excited about then!

Thanks for this, and for the offer of further help - owning an Aus-spec. car you'll end up being my go-to guy for some of these questions!

Cheers - Dave.

[JeffW]

A sophisticated approach to the matter... . Looks like nothing to get excited about then!

Thanks for this, and for the offer of further help - owning an Aus-spec. car you'll end up being my go-to guy for some of these questions!

Cheers - Dave.

My pleasure!

[Davo1805NZ]

Hi Jeff - my car has now gone off for it's panel and paint job and I'm sifting through the piles of stuff I removed from it to figure out what's good/bad, what can be refurbished and what needs to be replaced. Being Aus spec. it has the 2-piece fan cowl, but seems to be missing this part - 313090 (highlighted below. This part seems to be specific to Aus cars and I don't see it listed on any of the suppliers' websites. Does your car have this and do you know what purpose it serves?

If anyone else can advise, please post a reply. Thanks.


313090.JPG

[trunt]

Looks to be the same as the federal cars. I have been watching out for those parts for years but they just don’t come up. I did get the top half. The guy that sold me the car must have found them 6 months later and put them up on eBay, ignored my offer to snap them up and they went for a high price, I passed, I am now starting to regret that!

Here are the pieces from my car that some other bugger is enjoying!

shroud.jpg


terry

[trunt]

I just read back a bit..

If you are blocking up that short stub on the fuel tank you need to make sure that there is another way air can enter the tank as the fuel is used up. On federal cars the stub is the only vent and the UK type vent from the fuel filler is blanked off.

I have recently fitted an aftermarket tank that does not have that stub so to provide ventilation I have added a vent into the fuel filler, just a matter of unscrewing the bolt and installing a 1/8 npt barb fitting... but I ended up with a 90 degree one as it fitted better.

IMG_2799.JPG



Terry

[Davo1805NZ]

Looks to be the same as the federal cars. I have been watching out for those parts for years but they just don’t come up. I did get the top half. The guy that sold me the car must have found them 6 months later and put them up on eBay, ignored my offer to snap them up and they went for a high price, I passed, I am now starting to regret that!

Here are the pieces from my car that some other bugger is enjoying!

shroud.jpg


terry

Bloody rude thing to do, I reckon.... the b*****d!

Thanks for your post Terry - yes, I have the two pieces on the right of your pic, but not the one on the left. I guess it would be quite easy to have fabricated if dimensions could be ascertained.

Your comment regarding the tank breather is noted - I'm pretty sure it's taken care of but will check.

Dave

[Marco Polo]

Hi Dave,
My car is/was an early 77 car with all the emissions stuff on it when I bought the car, I was told by a Qld Triumph guru that I would never get the car in tune with it fitted and he advised me to return it back to UK spec. It was easy to do however you will need to replace the 3 pin oil pressure switch, and isolate two of the electrical connections to it. They are live when there is oil pressure for the anti run on valve. You will also need to disconnect the fuel tank vent line, that is found running just behind the brake servo. The Rimmers Catalogue shows what parts you will need to buy to return it to UK spec.

regards,
Raoul

[Davo1805NZ]

Thanks Raoul - the emissions control gear on this car had already been butchered somewhat when it came to me. The adsorption canister was still there, though connections to it had been messed with, and there's no sign of an anti run-on valve. Also there are no connections to the thermo switch on the radiator. I wasn't aware of the oil pressure switch issue, so will check status of that. At some time in the car's life the engine has been replaced with one having serial number quite close to the original, though I wouldn't know whether the carbs are the original ones. Engine is currently out and in the hands of a specialist who will check and sort any issues then tune it - I have told them the emissions gear is being ditched. Cheers - Dave

[trunt]

As far as I’m aware the oil pressure switch does not need to be actually replaced, the three contact one has normally open and normally closed contacts both go to a ground contact so just selecting the correct one should be enough. The one used for the anti run on valve just becomes redundant

The normally closed contact feeds the oil light(opens when there’s pressure— light off)

The normally open one grounds the valve when there’s pressure but the valve has no power. When you turn ignition off it supplies power and operates the valve for a few seconds until the oil pressure drops.


terry