Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Full Hard Top Restoration

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Full Hard Top Restoration

    It's about time I embark on said subject matter. I've gathered quite a lot of pics over the years - especially from Julian Leyton - but they are predominantly concerned with the headlining, seals, Furflex, trim etc.

    Has anyone done a full-blown strip down to bare metal? I'm a bit interested in the strip down sequence and any hidden clips which might lead to exasperation. I'm guessing the first thing I'll do is cut the rear light seal to remove the glass and start making the whole thing somewhat lighter and easier to manage. Next for me would be the sidelights.

    I'm wondering also whether to knock up a wooden trestle arrangement for the duration.

    Any tips and tricks most welcome - of course I'll do a photo documentation for interested parties in future!

    Cheers

    Drew
    If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

    #2
    Drew,

    There are some photos of what I started with, and how I tackled it, in an album in my profile. Not a professional job by any means, but it is still fine after 16 years. I use it every winter although, to be fair, it isn’t out all day, every day.

    One of the trickiest jobs was repair of the double-skinned area where the B-post locking handle fits. There is a sliding plate inside. I had to remake upper and lower sections, both sides as the B-posts weren’t attached to the bottom frame by the time I cut the rust out. I found a block of hardwood and carved the necessary shapes into it for beating the metal into the right profiles.

    Luckily I was able to borrow another hard top during the job to take measurements from.
    Last edited by DJT; 14th August 2019, 20:10.
    Dave
    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Dave! That looks like it was a challenging job! That's the sort of info I'm looking for!

      Drew
      If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

      Comment


        #4
        Because hard tops are so big and bulky be a good idea to build a turn over jig, it also depends on where your roof has rusted

        be carefully taking the chrome side rain channels of,they bend easy
        73 mk 1/2 now gone to the dark side BLUE

        Comment


          #5
          You need to carefully retain the two clips that cover the side rain channel joins, part number 627137, they are made of pure unobtainium.
          Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
          2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by mole42 View Post
            You need to carefully retain the two clips that cover the side rain channel joins, part number 627137, they are made of pure unobtainium.
            OK, I'll check if they're actually there and panic if not!
            If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by new to this View Post
              ......be carefully taking the chrome side rain channels of,they bend easy
              Is there a trick, or is it just a case of gently-gently with a plastic spatula as a lever?

              If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by dasadrew View Post

                Is there a trick, or is it just a case of gently-gently with a plastic spatula as a lever?
                Even more gently than that.
                You need to use some sort of spatula, knife, whatever, to slide the underside of the stainless strip away from the bodywork so that it allows the strip to slide upwards and off the channel. I used a 1½ inch (38mm) blunt wood chisel and a piece of plywood but carefully not to bend the underlip of the stainless. Do it bit by bit, allow an hour per side and promise yourself that Weißbier when you have them both off.
                Last edited by mole42; 15th August 2019, 09:58.
                Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
                2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by mole42 View Post

                  Even more gently than that.
                  You need to use some sort of spatula, knife, whatever, to slide the underside of the stainless strip away from the bodywork so that it allows the strip to slide upwards and off the channel. I used a 1½ inch (38mm) blunt wood chisel and a piece of plywood but carefully not to bend the underlip of the stainless. Do it bit by bit, allow an hour per side and promise yourself that Weißbier when you have them both off.
                  OK, got it. I actually have a set of those plastic spatulas and levers to remove trim panels and the like - might find something I can use.

                  I'm about to slice open the rear window seal so I can get the glass out - I guess that's as good a starting point as any as I'll be using a new rubber moulding anyway I guess.
                  If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

                  Comment


                    #10
                    When fitting that trim back again, I filled it with petroleum jelly first just in case any paint was chipped off. Wipe off the excess which is squeezed out. Job done.

                    I did the same with the other trims then, as there are gaps top and bottom, I sealed them with marine grade mastic.
                    Dave
                    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Well, inbetween thunderstorms I've started to strip the hardtop down. First question: The Quarterlight Furflex is brown and is quite an elaborate cross section - also it's one piece. Has anyone experimented with different suppliers (like Woolies) and found a good match to the original? The standard Furflex available seems to be just the Fur bit and a round rubber cross section attached.

                      Drew
                      If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Can’t help with that one. I was lucky to find an XJS in a scrapyard and used the door seal from that as it was an almost perfect replacement for the original.
                        Dave
                        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by DJT View Post
                          Can’t help with that one. I was lucky to find an XJS in a scrapyard and used the door seal from that as it was an almost perfect replacement for the original.
                          Yeah, I saw your XJ tip in a thread from a few years ago. It's the sort of Furflex that the regular suppliers do and - as you say - it seems to work.

                          Next question: My rear "L" shaped bright trims were fixed at the bottom by a Philips screw. This doesn't show up in the parts book but I notice on t'Internet that there are thes trims with a flattened out bottom end just like mine. Maybe a fix from PO to stop them springing out of place? (Especially as therear edge of mine is rusted and all trim has gone AWOL..

                          Drew
                          If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Mine, and others I’ve looked at had Phillips screw in the corner. I thought it was original......

                            If you search “Triumph Stag Hardtop” on Google and select Images there are several photos on there showing the rear 3/4 view and every one has a Phillips screw in the corner.
                            Last edited by DJT; 16th August 2019, 10:04.
                            Dave
                            1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Possibly advice can be obtained from the Vehicle Restoration Co. Ltd (website www.vrc1986.co.uk) ??
                              They advertise Stag hardtop restoration (and other services) in the back of the Club magazine.
                              They are located in Sussex.
                              I have NO connection with them, just passing on some (hopefully helpful) info.
                              And yes, agree with others, the Philips screw at the lower corner on both sides of the trim is an original feature.
                              Jim at South East Trimmings also advertises in the Club magazine, and he may have some good advice/info. (I saw a hardtop he re-furbished internally a few months ago, so he should be able to help.)
                              I had trouble getting the left hand side window bottom chrome trim to "snap" onto the black plastic clips - the clips themselves kept breaking. Finally had to use strong double-sided tape (as used to stick trim etc. to bodywork), which after 15 months is still doing the job.
                              Best of luck with the project.

                              Neil.
                              '77 Tahiti Blue, Spax, MoD, poly-bushed.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X