Terry regarding the water pump gasket. When you say it seemed a little thin are you talking about just its appearance or have you checked the cover to top bolt clearance and its a bit tight?
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Stag Carburretor Choices - Part 2
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Originally posted by Stagdad View PostTerry regarding the water pump gasket. When you say it seemed a little thin are you talking about just its appearance or have you checked the cover to top bolt clearance and its a bit tight?
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While you have the manifold off, find a bit of hose that fits over the cam cover breather pipe and try blowing down it to see if you can hear any air escaping from under the water pump just in case it has blown the seal out, even though it is a new pump.Neil
TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 256bhp 240lbft torque
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Originally posted by flying farmer View PostWhile you have the manifold off, find a bit of hose that fits over the cam cover breather pipe and try blowing down it to see if you can hear any air escaping from under the water pump just in case it has blown the seal out, even though it is a new pump.
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Originally posted by Paul Kelley View Postback-step to post #136 Drew - apologies for the delay, been away. Yes, the Gauge Shop is what I should have put! Paul
Jonno
.White 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few mods
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All the posts about discarding my Weber and reverting back to Strombergs seem to me to be a defeatist attitude.
My 2 present oil leaks are not all that major, and I am determined to cure them one way or another (with the Weber still in place).
Had a day off from working on the car itself today, but did make certain preparations for tomorrow, which included digging out my micrometer and feeler gauges for measuring water pump gaskets and gaps (as suggested by StagDad), and found some spare Inlet Manifold bolts to replace the "wrong" ones I took out when I removed it.
Also got out some metal pieces to use as an oil trap at the back of the engine if I can't fully stop the top end leak, so at least it doesn't escape onto the floor, and I can mop it up.
During dismantling so far I have found a couple of things that were not right, but (probably) nothing to do with the oil leak :-
Fault 1 - Choke knob came off, and pushing the choke all the way in did not fully close the air valves on the Weber.
Fix - Re-glued the knob, and adjusted the choke cable at the carburretor end so valve now closes properly.
Fault 2 - The breather pipe fiited between the cam cover and new coil catch tank was 2 pieces of pipe joined together which could reduce flow.
Fix - Will replace it with a single pipe.
I am in no great hurry to complete repairs, doing a day on then a day off which I think works better and reduces getting tired and making mistakes (reminds me of the Chinese Tutor in Karade Kid who said - "Wash on - Wash off" was the correct way).
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Originally posted by CJG View PostWax on wax off Terry.
By the way completely admire your dogged determination and tenacity to solve the problem and make the conversion good. Don't think i would have had the patience you obviously have. Best wishes.
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Still patiently waiting for gaskets and sealant to arrive from the U.K., so can't do much on the engine at present except clean things up and look again for a possible source of top end oil leak.
I have though discovered a few things requiring attention so far, and I have listed them on the attached diagram which I hope you can read. One or more of them could be the cause, or a contributing facture to the leak.
I have found some spare long Inlet Manifold bolts to replace the "wrong" ones I have taken out, and have found a spare water pump cover gasket that I think is the right size needed (need to check it with my micrometer). I have new Inlet Manifold gaskets on their way, although the ones taken off look like new, and as well as some "Dirko" sealant have also ordered some "Wellseal" to try on gaskets and anywhere else where oil might be seeping out from.
Aim to sort out the "top end" leak first, before tackling the one coming from around the timing chain cover/ front of sump. I have made an oil "trap" using some small metal brackets that I have fitted to the rear of the block on the left hand side where oil escapes down the back of the engine, just in case it starts leaking again so I can mop it up without it all dripping on the floor. Will post a picture later.
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Stag Block etc.jpg
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Terry - is there no connection from a "permanent" vacuum port on the carb, via a PCV, to a rocker cover (i.e. to the crankcase)? Without one, you can't generate a vacuum inside the crankcase which is what the original breather system did to help prevent oil leaks.
This arrangement is std fitment on most yank V8s, and very effective.Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.
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Originally posted by wilf View PostTerry - is there no connection from a "permanent" vacuum port on the carb, via a PCV, to a rocker cover (i.e. to the crankcase)? Without one, you can't generate a vacuum inside the crankcase which is what the original breather system did to help prevent oil leaks.
This arrangement is std fitment on most yank V8s, and very effective.
Still a little confused as to the exact arrangement of fitting one, and whether drilling into the Inlet Manifold (or elsewhere) is required if you do fit one?
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