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Stag Carburretor Choices - Part 2

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    Terry regarding the water pump gasket. When you say it seemed a little thin are you talking about just its appearance or have you checked the cover to top bolt clearance and its a bit tight?

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      Originally posted by Stagdad View Post
      Terry regarding the water pump gasket. When you say it seemed a little thin are you talking about just its appearance or have you checked the cover to top bolt clearance and its a bit tight?
      No, I have yet to check the clearance, and I have a copy of the little yellow Stag engine service manual which explains what the gap should be. I just thought at first glance it looked a little thin, and if a thicker gasket is required I have just found several spares that I have that have been accumulated over a number of years. In fact I found found loads of gaskets and "o" rings etc., I had stored away and forgotten about, not having a garage in which to store car parts, they are stored all over the apartment and my hired storeroom in different places, and I forget what I have got and where I have put it, especially as I have 25 years worth.

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        While you have the manifold off, find a bit of hose that fits over the cam cover breather pipe and try blowing down it to see if you can hear any air escaping from under the water pump just in case it has blown the seal out, even though it is a new pump.
        Neil
        TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 256bhp 240lbft torque

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          Originally posted by flying farmer View Post
          While you have the manifold off, find a bit of hose that fits over the cam cover breather pipe and try blowing down it to see if you can hear any air escaping from under the water pump just in case it has blown the seal out, even though it is a new pump.
          Thanks for that Neil, I will try that tomorrow, appreciate all your advice.

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            back-step to post #136 Drew - apologies for the delay, been away. Yes, the Gauge Shop is what I should have put! Paul
            Mk 2 1975 TV8 Mimosa

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              Originally posted by Paul Kelley View Post
              back-step to post #136 Drew - apologies for the delay, been away. Yes, the Gauge Shop is what I should have put! Paul
              EJ Ward seem to have a thorough approach to refubishing Strommies as well as a good reputation with Stags generally. Otherwise recommend using PayPal or credit card.

              Jonno
              .
              White 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few mods

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                All the posts about discarding my Weber and reverting back to Strombergs seem to me to be a defeatist attitude.
                My 2 present oil leaks are not all that major, and I am determined to cure them one way or another (with the Weber still in place).

                Had a day off from working on the car itself today, but did make certain preparations for tomorrow, which included digging out my micrometer and feeler gauges for measuring water pump gaskets and gaps (as suggested by StagDad), and found some spare Inlet Manifold bolts to replace the "wrong" ones I took out when I removed it.

                Also got out some metal pieces to use as an oil trap at the back of the engine if I can't fully stop the top end leak, so at least it doesn't escape onto the floor, and I can mop it up.

                During dismantling so far I have found a couple of things that were not right, but (probably) nothing to do with the oil leak :-

                Fault 1 - Choke knob came off, and pushing the choke all the way in did not fully close the air valves on the Weber.
                Fix - Re-glued the knob, and adjusted the choke cable at the carburretor end so valve now closes properly.

                Fault 2 - The breather pipe fiited between the cam cover and new coil catch tank was 2 pieces of pipe joined together which could reduce flow.
                Fix - Will replace it with a single pipe.

                I am in no great hurry to complete repairs, doing a day on then a day off which I think works better and reduces getting tired and making mistakes (reminds me of the Chinese Tutor in Karade Kid who said - "Wash on - Wash off" was the correct way).





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                  Wax on wax off Terry.
                  By the way completely admire your dogged determination and tenacity to solve the problem and make the conversion good. Don't think i would have had the patience you obviously have. Best wishes.
                  Last edited by CJG; 14 October 2019, 11:28.

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                    Originally posted by CJG View Post
                    Wax on wax off Terry.
                    By the way completely admire your dogged determination and tenacity to solve the problem and make the conversion good. Don't think i would have had the patience you obviously have. Best wishes.
                    Your right Chris, it was Wax on Wax off, and as regards patience, as a bachelor I patiently waited 31 years for the right girl to come along to marry, but I am hoping it won't be that long again until I get the Stag fixed. Did a couple of small jobs today on the car, measured the gasket & gap on the water pump housing (which didn't agree with what it says it should be in the book), and started afixing a first piece of metal at the left rear of the top of the engine block to stop any oil that collects in the "Vee" from running down the back side of the engine if it re-occurs again when I put everything back together again. Also did some more clean up work on top of the block and on the rocker covers. Will post pictures in a later post.

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                      Still patiently waiting for gaskets and sealant to arrive from the U.K., so can't do much on the engine at present except clean things up and look again for a possible source of top end oil leak.

                      I have though discovered a few things requiring attention so far, and I have listed them on the attached diagram which I hope you can read. One or more of them could be the cause, or a contributing facture to the leak.

                      I have found some spare long Inlet Manifold bolts to replace the "wrong" ones I have taken out, and have found a spare water pump cover gasket that I think is the right size needed (need to check it with my micrometer). I have new Inlet Manifold gaskets on their way, although the ones taken off look like new, and as well as some "Dirko" sealant have also ordered some "Wellseal" to try on gaskets and anywhere else where oil might be seeping out from.

                      Aim to sort out the "top end" leak first, before tackling the one coming from around the timing chain cover/ front of sump. I have made an oil "trap" using some small metal brackets that I have fitted to the rear of the block on the left hand side where oil escapes down the back of the engine, just in case it starts leaking again so I can mop it up without it all dripping on the floor. Will post a picture later.
                      .
                      Stag Block etc.jpg

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                        Picture of current state of Block as promised.
                        .
                        IMG_9553.JPG

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                          Terry - is there no connection from a "permanent" vacuum port on the carb, via a PCV, to a rocker cover (i.e. to the crankcase)? Without one, you can't generate a vacuum inside the crankcase which is what the original breather system did to help prevent oil leaks.

                          This arrangement is std fitment on most yank V8s, and very effective.
                          Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by wilf View Post
                            Terry - is there no connection from a "permanent" vacuum port on the carb, via a PCV, to a rocker cover (i.e. to the crankcase)? Without one, you can't generate a vacuum inside the crankcase which is what the original breather system did to help prevent oil leaks.
                            This arrangement is std fitment on most yank V8s, and very effective.
                            Wilf - At present there is no PCV valve incorporated into my set up, as I didn't at first understand that one may be needed.
                            Still a little confused as to the exact arrangement of fitting one, and whether drilling into the Inlet Manifold (or elsewhere) is required if you do fit one?

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                              is that brushed on hammerite all over the gasket sealing faces?
                              Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by richardthestag View Post
                                is that brushed on hammerite all over the gasket sealing faces?
                                I was wondering how to mention that gently!

                                Drew
                                The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

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