There has been lots of info on exchanging the heater valve. How do you get the little phillips screw out when it is apparently rusted in and the head is worn?
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Originally posted by Frustrated View PostThere has been lots of info on exchanging the heater valve. How do you get the little phillips screw out when it is apparently rusted in and the head is worn?Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic
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Originally posted by Frustrated View PostThere has been lots of info on exchanging the heater valve. How do you get the little phillips screw out when it is apparently rusted in and the head is worn?
Richard
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Originally posted by dasadrew View Posterr... the screw on the heater valve is about 3mm diameter! A hit with an impact driver would probably make it look like a rivet.
DrewWise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic
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Whichever way you attempt to remove it having the engine at normal running temperature may help as is often the case with a valve that is seized. It also saves bending the cable or pinging the clip off behind the control panel.Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic
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Originally posted by dasadrew View Posterr... the screw on the heater valve is about 3mm diameter! A hit with an impact driver would probably make it look like a rivet.
Drew
I'll get my coat
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Hi Everyone. I am not a Stag owner but I have a saloon. The saloon I own has the identical heater system. My valve has stuck in the closed position. To get at it I have to remove that dammed little corroded screw. If I run the engine nothing happens as the valve is closed. I have tried hitting a screwdriver with a hammer The metal shaft goes all the way through the handel. I have put on lots of Holts penetrating oil. I like the idea of the left handed threads if they are small enough and strong enough. Will the little screw break up, when you drill a hole in the middle there is not much metal? Space is another problem, I am trying to get some pushing force on the screwdriver and as it is not enough the screwdriver is slipping over the cross and rounding it off. I have a TR6 thank god the heater valve in on the motor block,
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Once again. It seems the last post has vanished. I am not a Stag owner. I have a saloon and the heaters are identical. The valve had stuck solid in the closed postion so running the engine is of no help. To get at the valve I have to remove that little corroded screw. I have tried a hammer. I have a screwdriver where the shaft goes all the way through the handle, no improvement. Plenty of Holt's Penetrating oil no success. The big problem is the refined space. I cannot get enough force on the end of the screwdriver and it keeps on slipping and rounding the head off. I like the idea of the left hand threaded tool. Is there enough metal left after one has drilled the hole? If I saw a slit is there enough metal left? Thank god my TR6 has a heater valve in the engine bay.
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