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    Coolant diversion mod

    Hi all,

    I've tried searching but to no avail. I seem to remember a mod to improve the Stag cooling involved diverting the coolant from the rear water transfer jacket somewhere or other with a T piece?

    Can someone advise please?

    Thanks

    Mark
    Sometimes you just need the 2 wheels!

    #2
    Mark
    It is linking the two heads together via a tee from the heather

    cheers Glenn

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Seaking View Post
      Mark
      It is linking the two heads together via a tee from the heather

      cheers Glenn
      P1070931.jpgHere we go
      "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

      Comment


        #4
        Yes I have done this.
        With a temperature gauge in both heads, you can certainly see a difference, but only when you have the heater on.
        With the heater off, there is a good 15 degree C temperature difference, the right hand off side the hottest.
        Open the heater, and the right hand off side drops by 10 degrees instantly.
        Mike.
        74 Stag (Best Modified 2007), 02 Maserati 4200, 17 BMW M140i, 00 Mitsubishi Pinin

        Comment


          #5
          Out of interest Mike does it have any negative effect on the heaters performance?

          Cheers

          Mike
          Mike

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by mike@thenook View Post
            Out of interest Mike does it have any negative effect on the heaters performance?

            Cheers

            Mike
            One could say better, it's pulling hot water from two heads instead of one!!
            Mike.
            74 Stag (Best Modified 2007), 02 Maserati 4200, 17 BMW M140i, 00 Mitsubishi Pinin

            Comment


              #7
              But does it not mean the heater must be on at all times? I suppose you can isolate the vents but doesn't some heat get through? BTW I have never tried this as I put the heater on only when I'm cold!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by TR5convalescent View Post
                But does it not mean the heater must be on at all times? I suppose you can isolate the vents but doesn't some heat get through? BTW I have never tried this as I put the heater on only when I'm cold!
                I have left the heater on 'Hot' on my Stags for years. Just move the RH lever up to 'Off' in the Summer or down to deftrost or hot as required in Winter. If heat gets through on Off, then the flap may need adjusting. Moving the horizontal lever to Cold in Summer is shutting off an additional, albeit small, cooling radiator.
                Dave
                1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Interesting - I'll have a play at some point, not that I've ever had a cooling problem though.....
                  Mike

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If you only have the original single positioned temperature gauge, you won't notice any difference, and yes, it only makes a difference when the heater is on.
                    For sure the right hand head does run hotter, and if the original temperature gauge was mounted in that head instead, everybody would be alarmed at their temperature gauge reading....and the reason the high temperature alarm was deleted early on in the Mark 1 production in this position!
                    Mike.
                    74 Stag (Best Modified 2007), 02 Maserati 4200, 17 BMW M140i, 00 Mitsubishi Pinin

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by mjheathcote View Post
                      If you only have the original single positioned temperature gauge, you won't notice any difference, and yes, it only makes a difference when the heater is on.
                      For sure the right hand head does run hotter, and if the original temperature gauge was mounted in that head instead, everybody would be alarmed at their temperature gauge reading....and the reason the high temperature alarm was deleted early on in the Mark 1 production in this position!
                      Just suddenly got a "Doh!" feeling reading this Homer Doh.jpg

                      I've been battling for months to get my temperature gauge to sit on "N" and not on the hotter side of the "N". I've got one of those Smiths capillary gauges and it's fitted ...... to the Right Hand Transfer Housing!!

                      Anyone know what the temperature there should be in comparison to the LH? I have the feeling that Klaus Schlueter might have posted this sometime...
                      The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                      Comment


                        #12
                        It is some time since I pointed my infra red gun at the transfer housings, but I think it was at least 5 degrees difference.
                        When the two transfer housings are linked it drops the temperature of the right hand housing compared to that of the right hand head just forward of the housing showing that water must be moving from the left to the right.
                        I assume the flow through the left head is slightly better, probably to do with the shape of the water pump housing and how the water is thrown from the impellor.

                        Quite what happens when using an external pump rather than the original one I don't know because I haven't tried it yet. One to remember next time I have one of my Stag engined cars out on the yard, only one of the four runs the original pump!
                        Neil
                        Neil
                        TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 256bhp 240lbft torque

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just measured the temperature between LH (where original temperature sender was) and RH (where my capillary gauge take-off is) transfer housings and it is 7°C.

                          If I look at the temperature range of the Smiths dual gauge (mine is just a C-N-H one, but the scale is probably the same for the degrees °C one), then the 7°C effect of fitting it on the RH housing compared to the LH housing would more than place the needle on the right side of the "N"!

                          Looks like I've got a cool Stag after all! (could have saved the money for the Revotec!)

                          smiths dual gauge 3.pngsmiths dual gauge 1.png
                          Last edited by dasadrew; 23 August 2017, 11:54.
                          The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                          Comment


                            #14
                            So you're running about 90 degrees Drew? nowt wrong with that!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Hi Drew. I would have thought that your engine should run 'cool'. After all, not only did you clean out all the casting sand and decades of corrosion from block and heads, but you built it with more care and attention to detail than most were at the factory. If they had all been built like that, there would be no such thing as 'Stag Paranoia'....
                              Dave
                              1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                              Comment

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