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  • gbb483
    replied
    OK, had the drums off again this morning. I still think the slave cylinders or the hub have to come off to get the handbrake linkage out. You may just be able to do it without if you just remove the brake cylinder outer rubbers, but as I don't need to I didn't try.

    Re-did the auto-adjustment set-up with the handbrake levers disconnected and tied back. It does appear to have made a difference. I haven't taken the car out yet, but I was able to pre-tighten the wheel nuts with just the handbrake holding the wheel still (couldn't before). The implication here is that the auto-adjusters are a last resort to wearing brake pads. If the handbrake starts failing, then disconnect the levers, tie them back, apply the footbrake a few times while spinning the wheels, re-connect the handbrake levers.

    Of course, whilst I was working on the car a passer-by took an interest. I opened the bonnet to exhibit the original V8, and noticed that the rubber linkage between the air filter and the scoop was brittle with a split from one end to the other. Now where did I put the tie-wraps . . .

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  • marshman
    replied
    Originally posted by gbb483 View Post
    I've effectively done the adjustment - after re-fitting the drum and before re-connecting the handbrake cable I applied the footbrake to centralise the shoes and get the auto-adjustment to do its business. The engine wasn't running, so I didn't have servo assistance.
    But did you tie the handbrake leavers right back as DJT said?? If not, disconnnect the handbrake cable, tie the levers back, stamp on the brake pedal and it should adjust up properly. Tieing the levers back really does make a difference.

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  • gbb483
    replied
    I've effectively done the adjustment - after re-fitting the drum and before re-connecting the handbrake cable I applied the footbrake to centralise the shoes and get the auto-adjustment to do its business. The engine wasn't running, so I didn't have servo assistance.

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  • DJT
    replied
    At least you have that sorted, but it does sound as if you need to spend a little time getting the adjustment right. Disconnect the handbrake cable, tie the handbrake levers in the fully 'off' position and stamp on the footbrake. You should hear the self-adjusters taking up the slack. Reconnect the handbrake cable and adjust as necessary. Don't tighten the cable up to remove slack without doing the above, it won't work.

    You don't need to remove either the cylinder or the hub to take out the handbrake lever you have freed off. Pop off the two discs and springs that hold the shoes to the backplate. Pull the shoes apart so that the ends are free of the cylinder and the hinge block and the whole assembly (shoes, springs and levers) will come away in your hands. Putting them back is a little harder, but fairly straightforward. It is all described in section 70.40.03 of the ROM

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  • gbb483
    replied
    Pulled the brake drums off this morning. Yes, you would have to remove either the cylinder or the hub to get the handbrake lever out (but not necessarily both). I didn't have to in the end - I discovered that the problem was caused on one side by someone putting WD40 or similar on the linkage*. The 2 parts were locked solid and not allowing the shoes to pull back at all when the handbrake was released. A toothbrush and Turps substitute eventually persuaded them to articulate properly. The other side was fine. I also managed to replace the gaiters around the handbrake levers. There is a lot more 'feel' to the handbrake lever in the cockpit now, but it still doesn't hold the car very well on a steep hill.

    * I'm assuming I don't have to explain here the fallacy of using WD40 as a lubricant, rather than as a freeing agent.

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  • wilf
    replied
    Originally posted by gbb483 View Post
    It isn't the shoes that are the problem, its the handbrake linkage that needs replacing.

    Understood, but I got those out and back in again too!

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  • gbb483
    replied
    Yes, I've ordered one of each from Robsport - plus a couple of the protective boots.

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  • 022Dave
    replied
    Originally posted by gbb483 View Post
    It isn't the shoes that are the problem, its the handbrake linkage that needs replacing.
    I replaced my handbrake linkages recently, plus shoes & springs, and didn't need to disturb the cylinders. Be aware that the linkage levers are 'handed' left & right-hand sides.

    Dave

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  • gbb483
    replied
    It isn't the shoes that are the problem, its the handbrake linkage that needs replacing.

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  • wilf
    replied
    I have replaced rear brake shoes without removing the wheel cylinders, it is possible and wasn't too hard?

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  • gbb483
    replied
    Looking at the manual, it may be possible to slacken the fluid coupling from the bracket at the pipe/hose coupling. That should allow enough movement. I find with all circlips that a small electrical type screwdriver does the job - apply it to each end first to drive the circlip round (loosening it and partially opening it), then insert it into the end away from the opening and twist to draw the circlip down and out. Of course, I may just find that the back plate and cylinder have become corroded together - in which case it's a complete re-build and can wait until the winter.

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  • richard w
    replied
    Now there's a good question, not sure about that.
    Obviously leaving them connected would save having to bleed the brakes afterwards, but the circlips are still a pain in the a**e without the right tool. I changed mine anyway as they were looking a bit old and scabby.

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  • gbb483
    replied
    Do you have to separate the fluid coupling to move the cylinders out of the way, or can it stay connected (assuming I'm not replacing them at this time)?

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  • richard w
    replied
    P.S. I think that the photos were originally posted by Julian, I certainly made use of them when I did mine.

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  • richard w
    replied
    I found that I needed to take the wheel cylinders out in order to replace the handbrake levers, as there just isn't enough room with them in place. It was, therefore, a good opportunity to replace them as well - after some swearing and skinned knuckles I bought the special tool to get the circlips on! A worthwhile purchase as the 2000 has the same design.

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