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    #31
    Pulled the brake drums off this morning. Yes, you would have to remove either the cylinder or the hub to get the handbrake lever out (but not necessarily both). I didn't have to in the end - I discovered that the problem was caused on one side by someone putting WD40 or similar on the linkage*. The 2 parts were locked solid and not allowing the shoes to pull back at all when the handbrake was released. A toothbrush and Turps substitute eventually persuaded them to articulate properly. The other side was fine. I also managed to replace the gaiters around the handbrake levers. There is a lot more 'feel' to the handbrake lever in the cockpit now, but it still doesn't hold the car very well on a steep hill.

    * I'm assuming I don't have to explain here the fallacy of using WD40 as a lubricant, rather than as a freeing agent.

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      #32
      At least you have that sorted, but it does sound as if you need to spend a little time getting the adjustment right. Disconnect the handbrake cable, tie the handbrake levers in the fully 'off' position and stamp on the footbrake. You should hear the self-adjusters taking up the slack. Reconnect the handbrake cable and adjust as necessary. Don't tighten the cable up to remove slack without doing the above, it won't work.

      You don't need to remove either the cylinder or the hub to take out the handbrake lever you have freed off. Pop off the two discs and springs that hold the shoes to the backplate. Pull the shoes apart so that the ends are free of the cylinder and the hinge block and the whole assembly (shoes, springs and levers) will come away in your hands. Putting them back is a little harder, but fairly straightforward. It is all described in section 70.40.03 of the ROM
      Dave
      1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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        #33
        I've effectively done the adjustment - after re-fitting the drum and before re-connecting the handbrake cable I applied the footbrake to centralise the shoes and get the auto-adjustment to do its business. The engine wasn't running, so I didn't have servo assistance.

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          #34
          Originally posted by gbb483 View Post
          I've effectively done the adjustment - after re-fitting the drum and before re-connecting the handbrake cable I applied the footbrake to centralise the shoes and get the auto-adjustment to do its business. The engine wasn't running, so I didn't have servo assistance.
          But did you tie the handbrake leavers right back as DJT said?? If not, disconnnect the handbrake cable, tie the levers back, stamp on the brake pedal and it should adjust up properly. Tieing the levers back really does make a difference.
          White TV8 BW35 no mods and now a Dolly Sprint to keep it company
          So many cars, so little time!

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            #35
            OK, had the drums off again this morning. I still think the slave cylinders or the hub have to come off to get the handbrake linkage out. You may just be able to do it without if you just remove the brake cylinder outer rubbers, but as I don't need to I didn't try.

            Re-did the auto-adjustment set-up with the handbrake levers disconnected and tied back. It does appear to have made a difference. I haven't taken the car out yet, but I was able to pre-tighten the wheel nuts with just the handbrake holding the wheel still (couldn't before). The implication here is that the auto-adjusters are a last resort to wearing brake pads. If the handbrake starts failing, then disconnect the levers, tie them back, apply the footbrake a few times while spinning the wheels, re-connect the handbrake levers.

            Of course, whilst I was working on the car a passer-by took an interest. I opened the bonnet to exhibit the original V8, and noticed that the rubber linkage between the air filter and the scoop was brittle with a split from one end to the other. Now where did I put the tie-wraps . . .

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