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    #16
    OK, I know its an old thread, but I've a question re: the handbrake lever that goes through the backplate. Is there supposed to be any additional return spring? My near side one has a lot of play when the handbrake is off. When the handbrake is applied there is no feel to it until the end when it feels like handle has hit a brick wall. The brake itself appears fine. I haven't looked at the off-side yet, and I can't remember whether the adjuster was correct, though the top spring was in front of the shoes, not behind (see the earlier photos in this thread).

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      #17
      Now I'm really confused - I've looked through the handbook and found 2 different exploded views of the rear brake assembly. The first shows just 3 long springs connecting the 2 shoes together. The second shows the same 3 long springs, plus 2 very short ones between each shoe and the handbrake cross link. Which is correct?
      Last edited by gbb483; 3 June 2017, 18:36. Reason: Spelling

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        #18
        The two short springs haven't been available for a long time, and aren't needed.
        Dave
        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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          #19
          Originally posted by gbb483 View Post
          OK, I know its an old thread, but I've a question re: the handbrake lever that goes through the backplate. Is there supposed to be any additional return spring? My near side one has a lot of play when the handbrake is off. When the handbrake is applied there is no feel to it until the end when it feels like handle has hit a brick wall. The brake itself appears fine. I haven't looked at the off-side yet, and I can't remember whether the adjuster was correct, though the top spring was in front of the shoes, not behind (see the earlier photos in this thread).
          Do you mean a lot of play in this bit?

          0006359_handbrake-lever-rh-stag_550.jpeg

          The pivot point can get very worn, which means when you pull the handbrake lever, its taking out some of the play before actuating the actual handbrake.
          You can buy new ones from the usual suppliers.

          Cheers...Al
          1975 Mk2 3.0 V8 MOD, new strommies, tubulars & quad exhaust = 166.8 bhp

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            #20
            That's the part - I'll get a new pair before pulling the drums off again.

            Thanks

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              #21
              I found that I needed to take the wheel cylinders out in order to replace the handbrake levers, as there just isn't enough room with them in place. It was, therefore, a good opportunity to replace them as well - after some swearing and skinned knuckles I bought the special tool to get the circlips on! A worthwhile purchase as the 2000 has the same design.

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                #22
                P.S. I think that the photos were originally posted by Julian, I certainly made use of them when I did mine.

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                  #23
                  Do you have to separate the fluid coupling to move the cylinders out of the way, or can it stay connected (assuming I'm not replacing them at this time)?

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                    #24
                    Now there's a good question, not sure about that.
                    Obviously leaving them connected would save having to bleed the brakes afterwards, but the circlips are still a pain in the a**e without the right tool. I changed mine anyway as they were looking a bit old and scabby.

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                      #25
                      Looking at the manual, it may be possible to slacken the fluid coupling from the bracket at the pipe/hose coupling. That should allow enough movement. I find with all circlips that a small electrical type screwdriver does the job - apply it to each end first to drive the circlip round (loosening it and partially opening it), then insert it into the end away from the opening and twist to draw the circlip down and out. Of course, I may just find that the back plate and cylinder have become corroded together - in which case it's a complete re-build and can wait until the winter.

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                        #26
                        I have replaced rear brake shoes without removing the wheel cylinders, it is possible and wasn't too hard?
                        Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

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                          #27
                          It isn't the shoes that are the problem, its the handbrake linkage that needs replacing.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by gbb483 View Post
                            It isn't the shoes that are the problem, its the handbrake linkage that needs replacing.
                            I replaced my handbrake linkages recently, plus shoes & springs, and didn't need to disturb the cylinders. Be aware that the linkage levers are 'handed' left & right-hand sides.

                            Dave

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                              #29
                              Yes, I've ordered one of each from Robsport - plus a couple of the protective boots.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by gbb483 View Post
                                It isn't the shoes that are the problem, its the handbrake linkage that needs replacing.

                                Understood, but I got those out and back in again too!
                                Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

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