Nuts & bolts

[Bandit1200]

I'm in the process of redeveloping the cooling system on my Stag to replace the standard water pump with a Davies Craic EEWP.
This involves the relocation of the alternator for which I have the brackets required.
I need to source bolts which are longer than those which are standard to fix the bracket to the front of the n/s head.
Can you please recommend a good supplier?
Thanks in advance
Steve

[KOY 23]

Namrick in Brighton

[LD334]

Steve,
Have you considered moving the EWP to the near side chassis leg avoiding the need to relocate the alternator? I'm looking at the same project and will not be relocating the alternator.

Paul

[Bandit1200]

The advice is to locate the EEWP as low as possible to avoid air locks. And since the lowest point in the system is where the bottom hose joins the radiator, that's where I've decided to put the new pump.
I have seen Stagongas's installation where the pump is mounted n/s. This involves a transfer pipe from the radiator bottom section from o/s to n/s. Steve (Stagongas) has skills and experience beyond mine and I chose the mechanical option of relocating the alternator to avoid the challenges involved in plumbing.
With the benefit of plans provided by DJT, I had some brackets made up by a local engineering company for £50 in the absence of immediate availability from the usual sources.
Having chosen the relocation of alternator route, I'm finding it more difficult than simply bolting a few brackets to the lump because I now need to source longer bolts since the brackets are so sturdy.
Now I've moved the alternator my next task is to find hoses to connect the new pump to the pipe which leads to the old water pump.

At the moment I have a head gasket to replace in addition to the EEWP installation so don't expect to have my Stag running for the next few weeks.
I'd be interested in your progress in fitting your EEWP so please keep us informed.

Best wishes

Steve

[Carboy0]

+1

http://www.namrick.co.uk

[LD334]

Steve,
I have a huge jobs list including refurbish the engine bay, fit new interior, rebuild door.
I've got a sketch of the required EWP pipe work which may be of assistance if I can attach it. Didn't work will PM you

Paul

[Bandit1200]

Thanks Paul. That would be very helpful.
Steve

[KOY 23]

Steve.
I fitted mine in place of the alternator as pipe runs were simple and relocated alternator easy to get at.
I used a custom straight silicon hose from SFS in Luton. one end to suit rad bottom hose outlet and the other to suit EEWP inlet as there is a small difference, the hose also had a stub to take the heater return.
Fit the angled outlet of pump facing forwards, this fits the original rubber bottom hose and into the original metal pipe which was shortened and I think moved over by reversing the clamp.
I replaced the bypass connection into manifold with a 1/2"? BSP to 15mm compression fitting into 15mm copper stub into a 15mm compression T piece which picked up the heater return pipe. The end of this had to be filed down as O/D of stainless tube is larger than 15mm copper. The 3rd connection of T piece went to stub on custom bottom hose, I used wire reinforced silicon pipe.
Temperature sender was tapped into O/S transfer housing as that is at the hot end of the engine. Thermostat left in place.

There are some far more complex ways of doing it but this works well and is easy. Sorry but cannot remember hose sizes as this was done about 10 years ago.

Sorry no photos but above should explain.

[Bandit1200]

Thanks KOY.
Can you describe how you rewired the relocated alternator please.
Best wishes
Steve

Steve.
I fitted mine in place of the alternator as pipe runs were simple and relocated alternator easy to get at.
I used a custom straight silicon hose from SFS in Luton. one end to suit rad bottom hose outlet and the other to suit EEWP inlet as there is a small difference, the hose also had a stub to take the heater return.
Fit the angled outlet of pump facing forwards, this fits the original rubber bottom hose and into the original metal pipe which was shortened and I think moved over by reversing the clamp.
I replaced the bypass connection into manifold with a 1/2"? BSP to 15mm compression fitting into 15mm copper stub into a 15mm compression T piece which picked up the heater return pipe. The end of this had to be filed down as O/D of stainless tube is larger than 15mm copper. The 3rd connection of T piece went to stub on custom bottom hose, I used wire reinforced silicon pipe.
Temperature sender was tapped into O/S transfer housing as that is at the hot end of the engine. Thermostat left in place.

There are some far more complex ways of doing it but this works well and is easy. Sorry but cannot remember hose sizes as this was done about 10 years ago.

Sorry no photos but above should explain.

[Stagsongas]

The advice is to locate the EEWP as low as possible to avoid air locks. And since the lowest point in the system is where the bottom hose joins the radiator, that's where I've decided to put the new pump.
I have seen Stagongas's installation where the pump is mounted n/s. This involves a transfer pipe from the radiator bottom section from o/s to n/s. Steve (Stagongas) has skills and experience beyond mine and I chose the mechanical option of relocating the alternator to avoid the challenges involved in plumbing.
With the benefit of plans provided by DJT, I had some brackets made up by a local engineering company for £50 in the absence of immediate availability from the usual sources.
Having chosen the relocation of alternator route, I'm finding it more difficult than simply bolting a few brackets to the lump because I now need to source longer bolts since the brackets are so sturdy.
Now I've moved the alternator my next task is to find hoses to connect the new pump to the pipe which leads to the old water pump.

At the moment I have a head gasket to replace in addition to the EEWP installation so don't expect to have my Stag running for the next few weeks.
I'd be interested in your progress in fitting your EEWP so please keep us informed.

Best wishes

Steve

Steve,

Only one factor is paramount with the initial siting of EEWP - to get it mounted as low as possible in the cooling system. Your choice has to be a good one for that reason alone, whereas which side of the engine it is placed on is far less important. It might result in a longer path for the Header Tank hose to feed into the low pressure side of the EEWP, but that's the only slight disadvantage I can think of. And then again, you could have your Header Tank on the other side too I guess?

Conversely, I'm sure that at some point I'll be moving my Alternator anyway, I want to upgrade it to feed my monster Battery (:-])

Good luck

Steve

[KOY 23]

Thanks KOY.
Can you describe how you rewired the relocated alternator please.
Best wishes
Steve

Assuming you have a Mk2, there are various ways you can do it:
1) Extend the wires from existing alternator round the front of engine to new alternator position. I believe some suppliers of upgraded alternators use this, which IMHO is the worst as more high current connections are used, and the cable is routed round a hot oily engine with belts and has sharp edges.
2) Make another loom to replace existing loom but run it round front of engine. As above but slightly better as no additional connections
3) Make another loom to replace existing loom but run it round rear of engine fixing it to bulkhead. Safest way IMHO, allow flexibility in cables to cater for engine movement. Cable thickness depends on alternator output but must be oversized to reduce voltage drop.
4) Make another loom to replace existing loom as in 3) but only run the thin wires round the bulkhead and run a thick wire between alternator and battery feed to starter motor. As above but vital that the cable is routed safely and not near sharp edges or exhaust.

In all cases cables must be adequately sheathed.

[mjheathcote]

I'm in the process of redeveloping the cooling system on my Stag to replace the standard water pump with a Davies Craic EEWP.
This involves the relocation of the alternator for which I have the brackets required.
I need to source bolts which are longer than those which are standard to fix the bracket to the front of the n/s head.
Can you please recommend a good supplier?
Thanks in advance
Steve

Every town usually has an engineering supplier that should be able to help...for pennies.
No need for such basic nuts and bolts to automatically think mail order!