Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Propshaft removal notes

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Propshaft removal notes

    Having booked my Stag propshaft into Chards in St. Philips for overhaul, I had to spend a fun couple of hours this morning taking it off the car. The ROM says to take both front exhaust pipes off, then both silencers, then take the propshaft off. Someone on here took his prop off without disturbing the exhaust but his pipe must be smaller than mine because there was no way the propshaft was going to come out that easily. I did not have to take all the exhaust off though, just the left-hand downpipe and then I could knock the left-hand silencer out of the balance pipe which allowed the silencer to rotate enough to drop the propshaft through. Taking the joints apart was a pig becaue I have to use exhaust paste on the joints otherwise it leaks. It is a very old stainless exhaust that otherwise works well.

    I'll follow up with reassembly next week just in time for the 2016 Calne Classic Car Run on May 22nd!

    Richard
    Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
    2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

    #2
    Hi Richard
    I took my shaft off last Monday without removing the exhaust and refitted it Friday. I just managed to slip it out from the rear and back In The same way. It is a MOD.

    Tony

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by mole42 View Post
      Having booked my Stag propshaft into Chards in St. Philips for overhaul, I had to spend a fun couple of hours this morning taking it off the car. The ROM says to take both front exhaust pipes off, then both silencers, then take the propshaft off. Someone on here took his prop off without disturbing the exhaust but his pipe must be smaller than mine because there was no way the propshaft was going to come out that easily. I did not have to take all the exhaust off though, just the left-hand downpipe and then I could knock the left-hand silencer out of the balance pipe which allowed the silencer to rotate enough to drop the propshaft through. Taking the joints apart was a pig becaue I have to use exhaust paste on the joints otherwise it leaks. It is a very old stainless exhaust that otherwise works well.

      I'll follow up with reassembly next week just in time for the 2016 Calne Classic Car Run on May 22nd!

      Richard
      Richard,

      See your other post Re: cooling hoses, I use the "T" bolts on my exhaust and that cured leaks at the joints


      Nigel
      Nigel
      1976 MK2 TV8 ZF - 4 HP-22 Auto, Hard Top Inca Yellow, Minilite Replicas, Stagdad Pump

      Comment


        #4
        Hi Tony, unfortuately mine wasn't going to go that easily. Even pushing the front end as high as possible wouldn't let the rear come down past the diff flange, it needed another inch or so. The silencers on my car only have a gap of about 1¼" (30mm) and I'm certain that the system isn't as well-formed as some, so it might just be bad luck for me! I wish I didn't have to remove exhaust parts, it's one of the jobs I really hate on the Stag.

        Richard
        Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
        2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

        Comment


          #5
          Removed and replaced mine last week with exhausts still in place. Mine is a manual
          Yellow Rules OK

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by mole42 View Post
            Hi Tony, unfortuately mine wasn't going to go that easily. Even pushing the front end as high as possible wouldn't let the rear come down past the diff flange, it needed another inch or so. The silencers on my car only have a gap of about 1¼" (30mm) and I'm certain that the system isn't as well-formed as some, so it might just be bad luck for me! I wish I didn't have to remove exhaust parts, it's one of the jobs I really hate on the Stag.

            Richard
            Good luck with the refit Richard. Mine is much better since I had the prop overhauled and balanced.

            Nigel what type of clamps do you mean by "t" type as my exhaust leaks even though I have refitted it with cement??

            Tony

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by mole42 View Post
              Hi Tony, unfortuately mine wasn't going to go that easily. Even pushing the front end as high as possible wouldn't let the rear come down past the diff flange, it needed another inch or so. The silencers on my car only have a gap of about 1¼" (30mm) and I'm certain that the system isn't as well-formed as some, so it might just be bad luck for me! I wish I didn't have to remove exhaust parts, it's one of the jobs I really hate on the Stag.

              Richard
              Hi Richard , I made this to push the balance pipe apart, enough to drop the prop between the boxes. will try and find my old post
              P1060688.jpg found this pictureP1050799.jpg
              Last edited by MandM; 8th May 2016, 18:51.
              "The UK,s Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

              Comment


                #8
                Great stuff! I used something similar to this:


                copper mallet.jpg

                I notice that you have a BW automatic gearbox - mine is a ZF and the propshaft has a flange at the gearbox end, makes it more awkward to wiggle out!
                Last edited by mole42; 8th May 2016, 20:28.
                Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
                2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I used to loath any stag job that involved removing the exhausts too.

                  In order to make it slightly more palatable, I used stainless clamps at the through hole hangers & fitted 6 new stainless studs & 6 very extended brass nuts to the manifolds (iron.) I believe the extended nuts were used on minis or works minis....they came from a mini stand at a show nearby.

                  It now only takes a few minutes, in fact the tail pipe hanger rubbers are the most fiddly exhaust item now

                  Oh & my skin has developed an aversion to modern exhaust assy paste!!!! (or is it that the skin is less young?)

                  I think the silencers with heat shields also make prop removal more tricky too, but the heat shields are worthwhile having if you can get them.

                  With the zf the exhausts need to come right off to get the prop out iirc. Seem to recall that the bw35 was possible without ...'just' the rear through hole pipes iirc.

                  Originally posted by mole42 View Post
                  Hi Tony, unfortuately mine wasn't going to go that easily. Even pushing the front end as high as possible wouldn't let the rear come down past the diff flange, it needed another inch or so. The silencers on my car only have a gap of about 1¼" (30mm) and I'm certain that the system isn't as well-formed as some, so it might just be bad luck for me! I wish I didn't have to remove exhaust parts, it's one of the jobs I really hate on the Stag.

                  Richard
                  Last edited by jbuckl; 9th May 2016, 00:01.
                  There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
                  2.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jbuckl View Post
                    I used stainless clamps at the through hole hangers & fitted 6 new stainless studs & 6 very extended brass nuts to the manifolds (iron.) I believe the extended nuts were used on minis or works minis....
                    I have recently fitted all new original-style stainless exhaust clamps & bolts & poly rubber bits at the rear subframe mounting. I'd forgotten about the long brass nuts for the manifold, we used them on the rally Mini because the standard ones stripped as the engine and exhaust moved about a bit when we were crashing over rocks.....

                    The problem with my cars exhaust is that it has been fitted with the usual crappy mild steel exhaust clamps that leave a groove in the outer pipe when they have been over tightened by Mr Kw*kF*t with a windy set to "bloody tight". I have spent a little time with various bits of tubing and a body hammer trying to get the joints more cylindrical but I suspect I really need to get a new one from Double 'S' but that's £400 which is irritating as the one that's on there works when it's sealed.
                    Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
                    2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You could try those same exhaust pipe expander some on flea bay for £20

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Tonyw View Post
                        Good luck with the refit Richard. Mine is much better since I had the prop overhauled and balanced.

                        Nigel what type of clamps do you mean by "t" type as my exhaust leaks even though I have refitted it with cement??

                        Tony
                        Sorry Tony, missed question in the thread, these are the ones http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/ash...ngle-clip.html they make a better seal and do not distort the pipe in my opinion.

                        Nigel
                        Nigel
                        1976 MK2 TV8 ZF - 4 HP-22 Auto, Hard Top Inca Yellow, Minilite Replicas, Stagdad Pump

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by jbuckl View Post
                          I used to loath any stag job that involved removing the exhausts too.

                          In order to make it slightly more palatable, I used stainless clamps at the through hole hangers & fitted 6 new stainless studs & 6 very extended brass nuts to the manifolds (iron.) I believe the extended nuts were used on minis or works minis....they came from a mini stand at a show nearby.

                          It now only takes a few minutes, in fact the tail pipe hanger rubbers are the most fiddly exhaust item now

                          Oh & my skin has developed an aversion to modern exhaust assy paste!!!! (or is it that the skin is less young?)

                          I think the silencers with heat shields also make prop removal more tricky too, but the heat shields are worthwhile having if you can get them.

                          With the zf the exhausts need to come right off to get the prop out iirc. Seem to recall that the bw35 was possible without ...'just' the rear through hole pipes iirc.

                          Are these are the type you mean http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-UNC-...-/371181189384
                          Nigel
                          1976 MK2 TV8 ZF - 4 HP-22 Auto, Hard Top Inca Yellow, Minilite Replicas, Stagdad Pump

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Those are the ones we used on the Mini. They don't strip quite so easily!
                            Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
                            2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Those look nice, but i seem to recall th eone i was sold are another standard nut longer again...... one of them only just clears the (cannister) oil filter when removing.

                              Originally posted by thebadleys View Post
                              There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
                              2.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X