Clutching at it

[Colonel Mustard]

Pretty much since I got my Stag (LD250) the clutch has been a switch (it's either all the way in or all the way out...there's no smooth biting point). An oil leak from the cam covers had been filling the bell housing and the gearbox leaks oil from everywhere. So I've finally bitten the bullet and got round to fixing it. The gearbox came out today and I think the biggest problem has been caused by rust on the splines between the friction plate and the input shaft. As often seems to be the case with old cars, evidence of previous bodged jobs has come to light...like one of the locating dowels from the flywheel is missing and the anti rattle pin and spring is missing from the gear lever (these will be rectified). I also noticed odd marks on the propshaft. Now that the shaft is off I can see that it has been caused by the fuel pipe not being secured properly and touching the propshaft! I dread to think what would have happened if it had worn through.

New bits have been ordered from Paddocks and I think I'll overhaul the gearbox while it's out as there was some metal filings on the magnetic drain plug.

Chris

[Staggard]

If I were you I wouldn't use copper grease on the splines I have seen this congeal and stick the plate so it might as well been rusted.

[Colonel Mustard]

Yeah I was thinking that myself. At work (Audi dealer) the technicians use a product that is specifically designed to lubricate the splines and not congeal clutch dust. Not sure what it's called...probably has a German name, but I'm going to get some and give it a try. I'll put the name on this thread when I get a bit further on...will be next weekend at the earliest before I put the gearbox back in.

Chris

[stag8manod]

Hi Chris, My suggestion is use graphite powder, this will put a long lasting dry slppery coating on the splines.
Cheers,
Ian

[tjk]

HiHaving just replaced my clutch I believe the best way to go is read the buckeye website. I replaced the clutch release sleeve and cleaned up the inside edges also replaced cross shaft and fork with new pin bolt. I used the paddocks up rated clutch kit.I now have a light, judder free and smooth action clutch. I used a H.M.P grease for wheel bearings.regardsTim

[Colonel Mustard]

Well, the clutch repair was delayed a bit because my other car died too just my luck...2 cars and they're both off the road at the same time. Head gasket went on my everyday car (25 year old Volvo). So this weekend started by fixing that (I need it to get to work and back). Today I put the gearbox back into the Stag (is it hard work doing this on your own...or am I just getting old now? I think it's a bit of both). Box is back in, prop shaft on (with front UJ replaced), exhaust pipes back on etc. I was just tidying my tools and getting ready to call it a day when I found 2 more bolts that I had failed to see when putting the box back in...even though I had separated all the bolts into specific areas after cleaning them ready for the rebuild (like I said...getting old now).

The job is 90% done and I'll come back to it when my aching muscles have eased off a bit.

Chris