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    STAG DOOR ALIGNMENT

    Hi All!

    I have a an annoyin problem with my Driver door alignment on my MK2- have a distinct "gape" where it meets the upper wing section! ...having said that a wing has been fitted sometime in cars history...lines up ok to bonnet etc but cant tell to clearly if the inner door hinge panel is out of alignment in some way? ....etc my question -is there a set procedure to follow for door hanging and alignment checking etc? any advice gratfully recieved guys!

    cheers to all!:dude:

    phil

    #2
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    Hasyourdoorhad a new skin at some point? I was told by Stag specialist that the press that does the doors has worn in the dog leg area and hence repanelled doors have a wide gap at the top. He said he always welds some metal on in this area to make the gap around the dog leg consistent, but not all body shops go to this extra length. You can adjust the door hanging in the different planes, but if your dog leg is not as original you will never get the gap right.




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      #3
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      Hi thanks a lot for that!- could explain - as best I can tell think it has had a skin!- fascinated to learn of this!- might be time to get my welding gear out of garage?!!!!

      many thanks!

      phil!:dude:

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        #4
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        hi Dave!- cheers for that!- out of interest is the mk1 door different to the mk2? I notice door cards slightly different? cheers :dudehil

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          #5
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          hazell_privateeye wrote:
          I was told by Stag specialist that the press that does the doors has worn

          Which is why our very own SOCTFL funded the replacement door skins as one of its earliest projects. These fit!

          From personal experience I had to have a new door skin fitted 18 months ago. I insisted on the SOCTFL skin. Although almost twice the price of a 'pattern' part, this cost was easily saved by the less time (therefore cost) it took to fit it.

          Dave
          Dave
          1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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            #6
            imported post

            Phil,

            Mk1 and Mk2 doors are different in that the Mk2 has anti-burst locks. If you compare, the locks are totally different and require fairly major surgery to convert, including to the B-pillar.

            Mk1 door cards are also different, but they are interchangeable.New Mk1 cards are not available and good ones are like rocking horse droppings!

            Dave
            Dave
            1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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              #7
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              Cheers Dave! you are a veritable fountain of knowledge! anytime you want to spend a week in my garage........! let me know! cheers PHIL:dude:

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                #8
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                Dave - your the man I am sure will have an answer!.... any ideas where rain gettin in on my 74 mk2!-(both rear floorpan soaked!) has been sat on driveway now for quite a while with soft top fitted -this was fitted just before I bought car! I have gone over all obvious.....its manifesting from some sort of pool from somewhere because I can dry out..... then following day even if dry day ....find it back again! no obvious hood leaks- door cards replaced- waterproof membrane in place as per- have re sealed area behind back seat area rear arch etc thinking it may be coming down back etc.... no obvious entries through bulkhead re masticked all over etc truly lost where to look next! my branny carpet set not happy!!!!any help really appreciated!:dudehil

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                  #9
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                  Are the drain holes in your sills clear?

                  I remember before I restored mine that they were so completely blocked (with rust inside, filler outside)that you could hear the water sloshing around when I was driving. Ended up drilling a couple of holes just to let the water out.

                  The tonneau sealoften leaks in the corners but you would have a puddle under the back seat if this was the problem.

                  Pete

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                    #10
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                    Hi PETE!

                    Thanks for reply- part of my refurb involved replacing door cards- cleaning inner door and remedial waxoyling etc have even replaced window seals with new! I lso waxoyled inners of sills- could have blocked? will re check ad drill a couple to see if it improves! thanks for feedback!

                    :dudehil


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                      #11
                      imported post

                      Phil,

                      Is the drive level? I.E. is the car level, facing uphill, facing downhill, leaning one way or the other? This could confuse the issue when trying to trace the origin.

                      You could temporarily remove the rear carpets andseat squab, and possibly the B-post internal covers, cubby units, etc. Dust talcum powder over the inside surfaces as far as you can. This should provide a tell-tale indication of how the water is finding its way to the rear floor pan.

                      One area often missed is the drain pipes (part 150835)for the rear tonneau seal well. These pipes are hidden beneath the B-post hardtop locking plates and drain water down into the soft top well and through the floor. If these are missing, damaged, or incorrectly routed the water could be finding its way through the soft top well and into the inner sills and under the sill carpet.

                      Another area is the join between the rear wing and the rear scuttle. This is often poorly finished and leads to a crack developing between the panels.

                      If the car is facing uphill, then this greatly increases the number of possibilities.

                      1. Front soft top seal allowing water underneath and into the windscreen frame, down the A-post and into the front well, flowing aft from there.

                      2. Around the front screen rubber, through holes in the windscreen surround (hope not as screen out and repairs here are expensive).

                      3. Through the gap between front wing and scuttle and through rust holes in the inner wing then as above. (Again, hope not!).

                      Good Luck!
                      Dave
                      1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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                        #12
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                        Hi Dave -thanks so much for that! car is on a slant down forward facing! will do some further investigation tomorow! re the window seal- this is not in good nick but have been right under dash and nothin appears obvious!.... have you ever tackled a screen out job yourself?...have done pretty much everthing carwise over the years just never been brave enough to tackle myself!....will keep you posted!

                        :dudehil

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                          #13
                          imported post

                          Phil,

                          "Slant down, forward facing". If water is finding its way into the rear footwell, then I would discount ingress from the front area. This sounds like the tonneau seal well drains.

                          Front screen? I took mine out a few years ago for repairs to be made to the windscreen area. Taking it out is no problem. A Stanley knife takes care of the rubber. Just don't stress the stainless steel trim taking it off as it won't go back to shape and good ones are getting hard to find.

                          As for replacement. I left this to Autoglass. They made a right mess doing it at my house, so they had it in overnight where one of their team had done Stag windscreens before. The second time they did it it went in well - and they supplied the replacement rubber as they had butchered the one I supplied! Moral of the tale? Find someone who has done one before as replacing the trim is not something the modern day, greater-spotted windscreen fitter will have been trained on

                          Dave
                          Dave
                          1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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                            #14
                            imported post

                            Hi Dave! many thanks for that!- at min have pulled all carpets ..seats out etc,, have found traces under back seat is damp near recess gromets holes...have pulled driver left cubby... think have found a iffy area- has had new inner sill at some stage not well fitted up to where it fits up to rear arch....? will look at other side also! thanks for tip on talc!! have also re masticked all tonneau area going to let things cure then get the hose out and see what happens....! keep you posted

                            :dudehil

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                              #15
                              imported post

                              Hi Dave! Just to let you know you were bang on! Thank god for a bit of sun!- found B post drain pipes blocked- got hose out ...tried the talc trick... low and behold screen leak very bottom right corner drivers side drippin down to inner back insrument panel edge then middle of front well.... I feared this ! I know not cheap!..rear arch to sill areas not good will prepare and seal accordingly rear tonneau seal seen better days! the main bogey is the door seals it appears..have lave lashed outon a complete softop seal hit from RIMMERS-and toneau seal thanks again for your advice!..... Dave ..the one thing that I cannot get my head round is how you fix clips to the outer door window seals (I bought not long back)?? do you have to take the door card off to fit this strip?.... I assume I have been sent right clips? for these but for love of god cannot grasp how I fit?? any help as ever really appreciated!

                              Cheers!

                              :dudehil


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