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1975 Mk 2 Stag Restoration.

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    1975 Mk 2 Stag Restoration.

    Hello All,

    Been on here for a fair while but only just about to start the stag restoration (slowly) as my Morris 8 is off for paint now so was twiddling my thumbs!

    I have restored a few cars over the years and wasn’t looking for a stag although always admired them, then heard of this one that had been off the road since ‘92.

    It had had a terrible respray before then, but up on the ramps looked great. Has never been welded before but needs some work.

    I have the usual rot and a bit of damage to the passenger side rear quarter (and know doubt the drivers when I get to it) but having got the excellent soctfl rear wing repair section and was about to order a sill in anticipation....here is where I need advice. The top of the sill behind the strengthening panel and in front was completely rotten, I removed the lower section of the front wing and to my surprise that was lovely and solid, have had a camera in the sill through the access at the rotten back end and it is lovely and solid with minor surface rust, the inner wheel arch rear also looks great.

    would you guys repair the top of the sill at the rear or replace the whole outer sill? Metal fabrication is no real issue for me.

    will try to attach pictures.


    #2

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      #3

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        #4
        IN the early days when sills were 40 i would have said replace the sill, but now as a sill is 150 ish if the rust is only a small area id repair it, but if its a big area replace the sill, you have to remember to replace a sill you have to cut a lot of the body work away to get access to it

        Dave
        73 mk 1/2 now gone to the dark side BLUE

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          #5
          Hi Dave,

          Thanks for the reply, I think that given everything else is solid and as you say the work involved in getting the sill out in terms of cutting in to sound metal I will fabricate the rear section and weld in.

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            #6
            Hello All,

            I had used Bilt Hamber Deox C before to clean up a few rusty bits, (I’ll post a pic of this) I then decided that at the back of the sill where I have it open I would build a barrier using ‘Plumbers Gold’ sealant (I’m a plumber) and pour in Deox C, it came out amazingly, I have filled again to a higher tide level and will post the result tomorrow. Amazing stuff, if you use it with cold water it does nothing, mixed with very hot water it is superb, and a very lazy way of removing rust from bits you can submerge and leave!

            Take care,

            Richard.

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              #7

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                #8
                After

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                  #9
                  Sorry struggling with photo upload.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Herbie View Post
                    Hello All,

                    I had used Bilt Hamber Deox C before to clean up a few rusty bits, (I’ll post a pic of this) I then decided that at the back of the sill where I have it open I would build a barrier using ‘Plumbers Gold’ sealant (I’m a plumber) and pour in Deox C, it came out amazingly, I have filled again to a higher tide level and will post the result tomorrow. Amazing stuff, if you use it with cold water it does nothing, mixed with very hot water it is superb, and a very lazy way of removing rust from bits you can submerge and leave!

                    Take care,

                    Richard.
                    Richard

                    have i got this right you put Bilt Hamber inside your sill, do you know if its flammable, i once put wax oil in side the sill then welded a small hole and it court fire,


                    Dave
                    73 mk 1/2 now gone to the dark side BLUE

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                      #11
                      Hi Dave,

                      Yes, I also have set for to the inside of a sill with the dynasty S 50 previously, terrifying but quickly burns off.

                      This is not flammable, it is a concentrated rust remover designed more as a parts bath rust remover. As I have the top of the rear of the sill removed for repair by the strengthened and the rest of the sill is solid with light surface rust I am using the solution to sit and remove the surface rust. Which it has! As I say I have increased the tide level and will post pictures later. The way I then remove it is by removing the bung I have made from the drain points at the rear of the sill, I have sectioned it off with plastic and plumbers gold so the area in question is about 40 cm of the sill from the back.

                      Will post pics later....

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                        #12
                        That should say dynax not dynasty

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                          #13
                          Not very exciting I’m afraid but this is the rear bottom of the sill, which had the majority of the surface rust compared to the rest which is virtually spotless with the factory primer still in tact.

                          You can see the tide line in the original paint/primer. Pretty please with it...good stuff.

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                            #14
                            Thats come up well ,before you close up the sill try and get epoxy primer and some paint on the inside of the sill,i know your use wax oil when your finished

                            Dave
                            73 mk 1/2 now gone to the dark side BLUE

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                              #15
                              Hi Dave,

                              Yes will be epoxy primered and then I will paint and Dynax it.

                              Will make the repair section up soon so the pics should become more interesting!

                              Comment

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