Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
1978 Stag restoration
Collapse
X
-
Currently putting the car back together and need some help. Hope to post some pics soon. If I recall when I stripped the engine bay the insulation pad on the bulkhead is purely attached with pop rivets ie. no contact adhesive. I need confirmation. However the internal insulation pads are stuck to the bulkhead with contact adhesive. Any recommended adhesive?John
1978 Stag Brooklands Green
Comment
-
Originally posted by len View Postyes engine bay bulkhead . rivets with small washers. no glue..Internal insulation pads stuck with something like high temp contact adhesive (spray ). Just took mine off , and were not stuck all over just in various places.
LenJohn
1978 Stag Brooklands Green
Comment
-
I am having my car re-upholstered by a local company and I have to provide the new seat foams. I have looked on the net at the usual suppliers and found the price differences quite wide. I won't name names. Has anyone any experience with buying replacement foams.John
1978 Stag Brooklands Green
Comment
-
Originally posted by JOHNS View PostI am having my car re-upholstered by a local company and I have to provide the new seat foams. I have looked on the net at the usual suppliers and found the price differences quite wide. I won't name names. Has anyone any experience with buying replacement foams.Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
Comment
-
Afternoon all,
I second Len's posting.
Jim at SE Trimmings shapes the front seat side bolster foams individually to butt tightly up against the back foams, and the bolster foams are of a similar material to the originals, so they retain an original shape ("plump") and support you well. Mine no longer look "saggy" with piles of crumbling foam on the floor. Again, the specialists know how to do a good job. I had considered buying a set of foams myself, but am very glad I didn't....AND he used the better quality base diaphragms, which are very comfortable, and are less prone to tearing when fitting the metal hooks through them.
Have a good weekend,
Neil.'77 Tahiti Blue, Spax, MoD, poly-bushed.
Comment
-
Just stripped the rear half shafts from the swinging arms that are going for powder coating. Pleasant surprise. Hub and brake back plate removed easily and all studs intact. Not a lot of material on the arm for helicoiling. Powder coating guy told me to leave the studs and he will protect.John
1978 Stag Brooklands Green
Comment
-
Originally posted by JOHNS View PostJust stripped the rear half shafts from the swinging arms that are going for powder coating. Pleasant surprise. Hub and brake back plate removed easily and all studs intact. Not a lot of material on the arm for helicoiling. Powder coating guy told me to leave the studs and he will protect.
I would go for the uprated rear hubs ( using taper bearings ),and keep the resin coated drive shafts,this set up is dearer than the CV jointed drive shafts £1500 compared to £1000 for CV drive shafts
The reason i would go this route is,to remove the CV jointed drive shafts you have to undo the rear hub nut each time if you need to get the drive shafts out
DaveLast edited by new to this; 16 March 2020, 12:03.73 mk 1/2 now gone to the dark side BLUE
Comment
-
Originally posted by new to this View Post
Ive just had mine powder coated,but i drilled and fitted grease nipples in the drive shaft before getting them powder coated ,
I would go for the uprated rear hubs ( using taper bearings ),and keep the resin coated drive shafts,this set up is dearer than the CV jointed drive shafts £1500 compared to £1000 for CV drive shafts
The reason i would go this route is,to remove the CV jointed drive shafts you have to undo the rear hub nut each time if you need to get the drive shafts out
DavePaul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't
Comment
Comment