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1978 Stag restoration

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    #61
    Inlet manifold is 5/16 UNC John, exhaust manifold is 3/8 UNC

    Screenshot 2019-10-07 at 22.12.31.png
    Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

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      #62
      Currently putting the car back together and need some help. Hope to post some pics soon. If I recall when I stripped the engine bay the insulation pad on the bulkhead is purely attached with pop rivets ie. no contact adhesive. I need confirmation. However the internal insulation pads are stuck to the bulkhead with contact adhesive. Any recommended adhesive?
      John
      1978 Stag Brooklands Green

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        #63
        yes engine bay bulkhead . rivets with small washers. no glue..Internal insulation pads stuck with something like high temp contact adhesive (spray ). Just took mine off , and were not stuck all over just in various places.
        Len

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          #64
          Originally posted by len View Post
          yes engine bay bulkhead . rivets with small washers. no glue..Internal insulation pads stuck with something like high temp contact adhesive (spray ). Just took mine off , and were not stuck all over just in various places.
          Len
          Cheers Len. Much appreciated
          John
          1978 Stag Brooklands Green

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            #65
            I just used stainless self tappers with washers, I reasoned that finding the original rivet holes would be a problem

            Terry
            Last edited by trunt; 15th January 2020, 17:13.
            Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

            www.terryhunt.co.uk

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              #66
              I had a look at mine and it's fastened with self tapping screws with washers as well.

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                #67
                I am having my car re-upholstered by a local company and I have to provide the new seat foams. I have looked on the net at the usual suppliers and found the price differences quite wide. I won't name names. Has anyone any experience with buying replacement foams.
                John
                1978 Stag Brooklands Green

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                  #68
                  Originally posted by JOHNS View Post
                  I am having my car re-upholstered by a local company and I have to provide the new seat foams. I have looked on the net at the usual suppliers and found the price differences quite wide. I won't name names. Has anyone any experience with buying replacement foams.
                  Aldridge or SE Trimmings. My upholsterer wouldn’t fit the one-piece front seat back foams as they are the wrong shape and difficult to fit. Be aware though that the Aldridge front seat base foams seem a bit ‘flat’.
                  Dave
                  1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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                    #69
                    SE Trimming foams are an excellent fit
                    Len

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                      #70
                      Afternoon all,

                      I second Len's posting.
                      Jim at SE Trimmings shapes the front seat side bolster foams individually to butt tightly up against the back foams, and the bolster foams are of a similar material to the originals, so they retain an original shape ("plump") and support you well. Mine no longer look "saggy" with piles of crumbling foam on the floor. Again, the specialists know how to do a good job. I had considered buying a set of foams myself, but am very glad I didn't....AND he used the better quality base diaphragms, which are very comfortable, and are less prone to tearing when fitting the metal hooks through them.
                      Have a good weekend,

                      Neil.
                      '77 Tahiti Blue, Spax, MoD, poly-bushed.

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                        #71
                        Thanks all. I have ordered a set from SE Trimmings.
                        John
                        1978 Stag Brooklands Green

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                          #72
                          Just stripped the rear half shafts from the swinging arms that are going for powder coating. Pleasant surprise. Hub and brake back plate removed easily and all studs intact. Not a lot of material on the arm for helicoiling. Powder coating guy told me to leave the studs and he will protect.
                          John
                          1978 Stag Brooklands Green

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                            #73
                            Re my last post I am considering the replacement cv half shafts for my restoration but the budget is running a bit tight. Any comments on handling etc.
                            John
                            1978 Stag Brooklands Green

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                              #74
                              Originally posted by JOHNS View Post
                              Just stripped the rear half shafts from the swinging arms that are going for powder coating. Pleasant surprise. Hub and brake back plate removed easily and all studs intact. Not a lot of material on the arm for helicoiling. Powder coating guy told me to leave the studs and he will protect.
                              Ive just had mine powder coated,but i drilled and fitted grease nipples in the drive shaft before getting them powder coated ,

                              I would go for the uprated rear hubs ( using taper bearings ),and keep the resin coated drive shafts,this set up is dearer than the CV jointed drive shafts 1500 compared to 1000 for CV drive shafts

                              The reason i would go this route is,to remove the CV jointed drive shafts you have to undo the rear hub nut each time if you need to get the drive shafts out

                              Dave
                              Last edited by new to this; 16th March 2020, 12:03.
                              73 mk 1/2 now gone to the dark side BLUE

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                                #75
                                Originally posted by new to this View Post

                                Ive just had mine powder coated,but i drilled and fitted grease nipples in the drive shaft before getting them powder coated ,

                                I would go for the uprated rear hubs ( using taper bearings ),and keep the resin coated drive shafts,this set up is dearer than the CV jointed drive shafts 1500 compared to 1000 for CV drive shafts

                                The reason i would go this route is,to remove the CV jointed drive shafts you have to undo the rear hub nut each time if you need to get the drive shafts out

                                Dave
                                Hi Dave, I've got the CV joints on my Brown stag, comes out the same as the originals, disconnect from diff, undo the 6 stud nuts on the hub, brake shoes and withdraw.
                                Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

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